We happened to be in Bangkok when Thailand had it’s biggest and most important annual festival, the Buddhist New Years celebration also known as Songkran, or the Water Festival. Supposedly celebrated from April 13th to the 15th, in reality it lasts a whole week, from April 9th to the 16th. This is to allow people time off work to travel back to their hometowns and celebrate with their families.
Songkran literally means moving forward and passage of the sun. In the Buddhist solar calendar, this takes place when Aries moves into Pieces. This is also the time when families visit temples, make offerings, and monks proliferate their temples. Thailand is 95% Buddhist and they follow the Buddhist solar calendar which is 543 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar used in the West. Their year zero starts in the year that the Buddha attained enlightenment, so it is the year 2567 instead of 2024.
We didn’t really understand the significance of it until we did a little research and asked some questions. Initially we started noticing all the street vendors selling racks of brightly colored, Hawaiian style shirts, along with racks and racks of water guns in every size you can imagine. From little palm sized squirt guns to giant water cannons. This is due to the fact that Songkran, the New Years celebration, is a giant water fight. It was not historically this way, but over the centuries this is what it has developed into, and is it ever fun!
Certain areas of town are designated by the city for the water fights to take place in. They close streets to traffic, allocate city blocks, parks, and the big shopping malls host water fight areas as well.
After learning about it, Aaron and I were thrilled to take part. The water festivities kicked off at 11:00 am on April 13th, so we headed over to the Khao San Road area with our bright shirts and our big water guns slightly beforehand. The entire day turned out to be such an unexpected BLAST! We were walking down the street carrying our loaded water guns, in one of the designated areas, this one was for three city blocks. Nothing much was happening yet.
Then a young girl and boy ran up to us and gave us each one squirt of water on our midsections, said “sorry”, laughed and ran off. That kicked it off, we were soon exchanging “fire” with kids and adults alike.
Aarons water gun soon crapped out, so he replaced it with one that held about a gallon of water (me too!). There were several “ammo” refilling stations on every block. These are vendors with giant drums of ice cold water where you could get your water gun refilled for five cents. Businesses also got in on the act by actually throwing full buckets of water on you when you walked by. Trucks drove by blasting music and filled with people soaking pedestrians as they moved up the street. There were live music performances in several locations, and just a lot of joy-filled people having a great time.
People of all ages, literally, and from all over the world got in on the fun. We carried on for about six hours straight before we had to stop and rest and get some food. The restaurant we stopped at had an outdoor seating area that was filled with soaking wet people. It was awesome. After eating we decided to call it a day for the water fight, but we got and received a few good shots before leaving the street we were on. The walk back to our hotel allowed us to drip off a little before entering the lobby. But they were ready with mops for all the wet guests returning to the hotel. The water fight lasted everyday from 11:00 am until at least midnight.
This festival really stood out to me because there were so many participants, and everybody just wanted to have fun. There was never anything mean-spirited or over the limits going on. I don’t know that I have ever been in a celebration that big, or that much fun, and everyone remained so nice! There was no type of aggression in the festivities at all. Families had small inflatable kiddie pools set up by their front doors so that even the little ones could join in the fun. It really was an all around good time and we are both so glad that we got to participate in it.
This is one example of why we love Thailand. The people are so nice and polite. This is one of the few times I’ve seen the local people be not quite so reserved.
The next few mornings we observed families taking offerings of flowers to the temple on the street where we were staying. The monks bring in sand and build small sand sculptures of “cheddis” or a small, dome shaped shrines. This is also the time that children, of all ages, pay respect to their family elders, verbally and with visits, and gifts.
This would be a great time to visit Bangkok if you’re planning a trip. We would certainly love to go back during Songkran again. If you’re not up for this type of activity, plan your trip at a different time, or stay inside because you will get wet!
We have been to Thailand several times but had not yet visited the Northern mountain region. Hearing from many people how beautiful it was, we were anxious to visit. Unfortunately, we didn’t know about the burning season in Southeast Asia when we planned our visit. Burning season is when the farmers burn their fields after the crops have been harvested. This is an ancient tradition that helps to replenish the soil for the next planting season. Burning starts in February and goes through April, and the air quality is poor and can get quite thick with smoke. If you go, plan your visit before or after these months. Northern Thailand is known for it’s beautiful mountain scenery, but we didn’t get to see any of it as all of the prime mountain look-out spots were completely socked in with smoke.
Even though we missed out on the mountain scenery we had heard so much about, we still saw so many beautiful and interesting places and ate so much great food, that we still consider our visit a success.
Chiang Mai
In Chiang Mai we stayed within the old city walls at a great place, The Vista Limited, which was within walking distance to almost everything we wanted to see, plus some nice coffee shops and restaurants. Ancient temple ruins, Muay Thai fights, and the Sunday Market. For anything out of walking distance, we used the Grab ride app. Convenient, easy, and cheap, it gets you where you’re going. This can be used in several Southeast Asian countries and is easy to download and works much like Uber.
Sunday Market
We’ll start with the Sunday Market which is one of the best markets I have been to in Thailand, so far. It starts inside the Old City walls, near the ancient Tha Phae Gate and runs one kilometer down Ratchadamnoen Road and spreads onto some side streets. The road is closed to traffic for this market which starts at 4:00 pm and runs until 10:00 pm. The selection of foods, crafts, souvenirs, and entertainment cannot be beat. Be prepared to spend several hours and have some small change as you will want to try many of the tasty treats on offer. It gets pretty crowded between 6:00 to 8:00 pm, so be prepared. We went twice, mostly to take advantage of the great food that we found there.
Ancient Ruins
There are so many beautiful and ancient temples inside the Old City walls that it’s hard to visit them all. Some are free to enter and some cost one or two dollars. The ones we visited included Wat Chedi Luang which dates back to 1385. Wat Phra Singh, which is free to enter and in walking distance of Wat Chedi Luang.
Wat Chiang Man, located in the Northern part of the Old City, this served as the residence for King Mengrai in the 1200s. Wat Phan Tao with it’s beautiful golden and white chedi. The beautiful and impressive Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang, and the Three Kings Monument. All beautiful, very different from each other, and worth a visit. We also visited many temples that are still in use. With stunning grounds and impressive architecture, we have found temples in Thailand very impressive to visit and to wonder through. We were even lucky enough to visit some on special days and were able to see the monks chanting or holding special ceremonies.
A hidden gem and a must visitis Wat Sri Suphan, also known as the Silver Temple. Located just outside the Old City walls in a residential area of the silver-working neighborhood, this is one of the oldest and most unique temples in Thailand. It is completely clad in intricately worked silver. This temple is a piece of art and even if you’re not much on visiting temples, you
will be wowed by this one. It is unlike any temple I have visited and is classified as one of the most unique temples in all of Asia.
Tuk-Tuk Lessons
Aaron’s birthday came around while we were in Chiang Mai and wanting to do something fun and different, I booked us a day learning to drive a Tuk-Tuk. This was a really fun activity, learning to drive the Tuk-Tuk was fun and easy to get the hang of. They drive you out into the countryside for your lesson. You don’t really get to drive on the roadways, just around the area where the lessons are held. We also got to tour a Karin cultural village and the rural countryside, driving past farms, elephant sanctuaries and temples. Combined with a wonderful dinner at a nice restaurant overlooking the river, it all made for a great birthday.
Muay Thai
The national sport and cultural martial art of Thailand is Muay Thai, or Thai Boxing. This ancient martial art dates back to the 13th century and is known as “The Art of Eight Limbs” and using eight points of contact, a fighters body mimics weapons of war. Muay Thai is also an Olympic sport.
If you ever have an opportunity to go to a Muay Thai fight, do it! I didn’t really know how I would feel about it as I don’t like violence or the cage style fights on television. But I quickly found myself hooked on Muay Thai. It is an ancient martial art and a very specific set of rules and conduct are followed. There is a very traditional opening ceremony with music, and fighters wearing ceremonial head and armbands are blessed by Buddhist monks.
Since we were staying inside the Old City, we went to the Tha Phae Boxing Stadium that is located near the ancient Tha Phae Gate. The fights start at 9:00 pm, and the stadium is small so there really isn’t a bad seat in the house. For around $17.00 you get to watch ten matches. The night we went there were a couple of female matches and the title fight was between a local champion and a French champion. It was very exciting! The house was pretty much full with a mix of locals and tourists. There is table service for food and drinks. It was a great atmosphere and a really fun evening. I would love to go again.
Traditional Thai Massage
You need to try authentic Thai massage at least once when you visit Thailand. But be sure you go to someone who is specifically trained in Thai massage. We celebrated our anniversary in Chiang Mai by making an appointment for the “Honeymoon” couples massage package at Zabai Massage & Spa. A romantic four and half hours that consisted of Thai massage, reflexology, mud wraps, herbal treatments, and several showers. This was followed by a beautiful presentation of fruits, sweets, juice, and tea. These ladies knew what they were doing. They were a little pricier than the walk-in massage salons but you get what you pay for.
We also spent some time in another location outside the Old City Walls and were rewarded with a completely different experience in a different part of the city. Bars, nightclubs, restaurants, bakeries, shopping malls, combined to give us insight to another part of Chiang Mai. Not only does Chiang Mai have a healthy amount of tourists, which I was expecting, it really surprised me to see how many Western expats live there. In some places, I found this to take away from the atmosphere.
Getting to Pai from Chiang Mai
The next stop on our Northern Thailand tour was the city of Pai. You can get to Pai by bus, taxi, van, or Grab. We booked seats on a shuttle van for the three hour trip. At the time of our visit, there were no Grab services in Pai.
Pai
One of the premiere things to do in Pai is climb to the top of the hill to visit the Big Buddha. Officially known as Wat Phra That Mae Yen, it is an enormous white Buddha statue perched at the top of 353 steps. Not only is he impressive up close, but you get a great view of the area from the top. The steps are easy to do if you go before it gets too hot out.
We rented bicycles for the short but scenic ride to the hill. Pai is a small town with low traffic, which made for a very pleasant ride out to the hill, and then all around the town afterwards. It was a fun morning and it always feels good to get out and do something physical in the mornings before it heats up too much.
The Pai region of Northern Thailand is known for it’s caves. Located just a little over an hour’s car ride from Pai, the Tham Lod Cave System is easily the most impressive. When these caves were excavated back in the 1960s, the remains of a Stone Age tribe were found. Today, members of the local village act as tour guides. This adds to their income and helps to preserve the caves. The first two caves were enormous and had some natural light coming in. The third cave was completely devoid of light. Using a gasoline lantern, our guide led us through this very impressive cathedral sized cavern. By using only lantern light, the creatures that live in the darkness remain undisturbed. After we finished going through the third cave, we came upon a spot where the river runs through the caverns. Long, thin, bamboo rafts were waiting to pole us down the river and back out into the sunlight. As we glided along on the river, light from the outside began to reflect on the magnificent stalactites growing down from the ceiling and on their reflection in the dark water. It really was beautiful and peaceful.
The grounds around the cave were very nice and a bamboo bridge stretched over the river where we fed the fish. It was a great way to spend an afternoon.
The small town of Pai was a great place to spend a few days. In addition to doing some fun outdoor activities, we went to their night market several times. One whole street is closed to traffic every night for this market. We sampled some great local foods, sweets, saw an array of handicrafts, and heard the local school children’s choir sing.
Chiang Rai
After leaving Pai, we headed North to Chiang Rai. One of the first things we did was have a Tuk-tuk take us around town and the surrounding areas. Located about five miles outside the city of Chiang Rai you will find the areas top attraction, the White Temple. You’re not going to want to miss this one. There is nothing like the White Temple any where else in the world.
The White Temple, or Wat Rong Khun is a Buddhist temple, and a work of modern art. The original temple fell into a bad state of repair and money was not available for its upkeep. A local Chiang Mai artist and architect, Chalermchai Kositpipat used his own money to completely rebuild the original temple, plus adjacent buildings. Spending over 40 million Thai Bat, or $1,157,000.00 U.S. dollars, Kositpipat considers the temple to be an offering to Lord Buddha and believes the project will give him immortal life. The compound has nine buildings which include two art galleries and living quarters for monks. Every building is ornately decorated and represents something different.
The main building, or ubosot, is reached by crossing a bridge over a small lake. In front of the bridge are hundreds of outreaching hands that symbolize unrestrained desire. The bridge of the Cycle of Rebirth proclaims the way to happiness is by foregoing temptation, greed, and desire. There are also some statues of mythological creatures found on the bridge and all around the buildings.
After crossing the bridge you arrive at “the gate of Heaven” which is also guarded by creatures representing death. You then reach the main temple itself, the White Temple. Built in the classic style of a temple with a three tiered roof, that is where the resemblance to a regular temple ends. The all white building is embedded with mirrored glass on the outside, along with abundant use of Naga (serpents). There is just no way I can describe this beautiful building, or its wild interior fraught with ornate symbolism, pop culture images, and art. I truly don’t know how the artist came up with so many unique, beautiful, and sometimes scary designs.
There is also a beautiful golden building across a golden bridge, at the back of the complex that is stunning inside. One art gallery contains the builders art. The other art gallery features paintings from artists from around the world or special exhibits. This whole complex was one of the most wild and intriguing places I have ever visited, and everything means something. Life, death, warfare, idolatry, greed, desire, materialism, Heaven and Hell. The overall moral message is clear: people are wicked. The complex is set for completion in 2070.
The Blue Temple
Next we went to the Blue Temple. We were not surprised to learn that this temple was designed and decorated by a student of Kositpipat, the man who built the White Temple. This temple is more traditional, except for its vivid sapphire blue and gold colors. Most Buddhist temples are golden and red.
This blue color represents elements that Buddhists aspire to; purity, wisdom, and lack of materialism. The grounds are filled with magnificent statues, fountains, and works of art. With its classic Thai architecture, mixed with modern art, this complex has a completely different feel than that of the White Temple. With its bold use of vivid colors, it is unique and beautiful in its own right and definitely worth a visit. An interesting fact, an ancient temple once stood on these grounds. The Temple of the Dancing Tiger. This was when wild tigers still roamed the forests here.
Wat Huay Pla Kang
Next we visited Wat Huay Pla Kang. Lesser known and visited by tourists, this complex is very important to the surrounding community. This temple was designed by Buddhist monk and visionary, Phra Ajarn Phob Chok. What started out as just his office, is now an enormous, uniquely stylized, and very beautiful temple. Next to the temple is a towering, nine story high pagoda. The top tier is bell shaped like a traditional Thai chedi.
All nine floors are decorated with carved sandalwood images of Buddhas and many Chinese divinities. A pair of lovely golden Chinese dragons line the steps leading up to the pagoda. Also towering above the grounds is a massive, 25 story tall statue of Quan Yin. Not to be mistaken for a Buddha, Quan Yin is the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, or the Bodhisattva of Compassion. For one dollar you can take the elevator to the 25th floor of the statue and get panoramic views of the grounds, the surrounding rice paddies and mountains. I was also very impressed by gigantic white dragons that wind their way around the grounds surrounding Quan Yin. This whole complex was beautiful to visit and very peaceful.
Bandan Museum
The Bandan Museum, better known as the Black House was another impressive work of architecture, artistry, and imagination. Both unique and strange, this one was done by famous Thai artist Tawan Ducchini. This museum is a complex of 40 black and brown buildings, all built in the style of a Buddhist temple, even though no temple has ever stood on these grounds. Buddhist art can be found throughout the grounds. What makes this museum so unique is the fact that it contains the world’s largest collection of animal remains that have been made into furniture and art.
Ducchini was a devout Buddhist, and all of his work represents the suffering man brings upon himself through desire and greed. Death and mortality are on display everywhere, reiterating the impermanence of life, which is central in Buddhist philosophy.
Even though our trip to Northern Thailand was somewhat tainted by coinciding with the burning season, we had a great time. We saw some wonderful natural and man made marvels, had some fun outdoor adventures, and ate some great food. We really got to delve into Buddhist history and art and learned so many fascinating things. If you’re ever in Thailand, and can tear yourself away from the beach, make some time for a trip to the mountains. It will be an experience to remember.
The Taj Mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World! It is known as a jewel of Muslim art and architecture. Like most people, I have seen pictures of it in books, magazines, and on television for most of my life. Now I found myself about to actually see the real thing!
Aaron and I booked a tour of the triangle through our hotels travel agency in Delhi. On departure day, Sanjay Kumar, our awesome driver and guide for the tour, picked us up from the hotel at 7:00 am and we set off for Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. In mid-January in this part of India, the days start off very foggy and stay that way until around noon. You can choose when you want to go to the Taj, morning or afternoon. We wanted the sky to be as clear as possible so we chose the afternoon for our visit when we booked our tickets online.
Delhi
Agra is not really that far from Delhi, but you have to take traffic conditions into consideration. And a city with 28 million people has a lot of traffic! Driving through the streets of Delhi is a journey in itself. It becomes very apparent that a lot of the fog is smog. At almost every red light there are vendors going from car to car selling anything you can imagine; dish towels, roses, car window shades, sunglasses, etc. There are also the homeless; children, mothers with babies, the elderly, that tap on the window and say “money”, or “chapati” (an Indian bread). You can also see them lined up on the sidewalk in rows, under blankets, or gathered around a small fire they’ve built from collected trash. Although every country has homeless people, this is always the hardest part of travel to me.
Finally getting out of the city limits we stopped for breakfast, and this put our travel time to Agra at about five hours. Our driver Sanjay, stopped at a nice, local roadside spot for breakfast. It was a big place, and it was packed. We had Masala Dosas for breakfast, they were delicious, and some hot coffee to warm us up. It had been a cold morning so far.
We arrived in Agra around 1:00 in the afternoon. Sanjay took us straight to the hotel to check in and freshen up. Our guide for the Taj Mahal met us at the hotel and Sanjay drove us over around 2:30 pm. The lines to get in were not really that long, but our online tickets got us right in. No one without a ticket can get beyond this front ticket area. This is a 42 acre complex and we quickly found ourselves in a shuttle heading towards the impressive and immense entrance gate. Next, we had to make a stop at a booth where they gave us disposable covers to wear over our shoes and a bottle of water each. You don’t have to put the shoe covers on until you are actually going to enter the Taj Mahal building itself. It was also still a good walk from the shoe cover booth to reach the awesome entrance gates.
Taj Mahal Entrance Gates
You can’t see the Taj Mahal until you are going through the enormous gateway. We were already impressed with just this. This gateway is immense and very detailed. I had never even seen a picture of it. But when you walk through and see the Taj, still at quite a distance away, it takes your breath away.
Right after you emerge on the other side of the entrance is the famous spot where almost all the photos you see are taken. Of course, everyone wants to stand there and have their picture taken with the Taj in the background, us included. It’s a must! It was crowded, but not like I thought it would be. I thought there would just be a hoard of people pushing and shoving, but the complex is so big that there were plenty of places to stand and get pictures with an unobstructed view.
Taj Mahal and Fountain
The grounds themselves contain the Mughal Symetrical Gardens which are beautiful and meticulously maintained. I was surprised to see green parrots flying from tree to tree. Long fountains stretch from the entrance to the Taj itself. The grounds also contain two guesthouses, a mosque, and another grand gateway. Our guide J.J., made sure we got plenty of pictures at the entrance, then encouraged us to walk the grounds and take more pictures after we had gone inside the mausoleum itself. No picture taking allowed inside the mausoleum. We actually saw people having their phones confiscated and security deleting the photos that they had taken.
If you didn’t already know, the Taj Mahal is a mausoleum. Construction of this ivory marble wonder started in 1631 and took 22 years to complete. At the time of its construction, it cost 32 million rupees, or about $385,000.00 dollars to build. Today it would cost 350 billion rupees, or $421 million dollars to build. The white marble used for the Taj lets light shine through it and it picks up colors from the sky, so it changes very subtly throughout the day. What you can’t see unless you’re close up is the intricate and delicate designs inlaid all over it. These flowers and designs are all done in semi-precious stones such as lapis, topaz, garnet, malachite, jade, and others. It took 20,000 workers, 22 years to complete this marvel of architectural design.
The story behind the Taj Mahal is a real life love story. The Taj Mahal was built under the order of Emperor Shah Jahan for his beloved wife, Mumtaz. The Shah had three wives, two were Indian princesses with which he had no children. These marriages were for political purposes only. Mumtaz was a princess from Persia (Iran) and his favorite and most beloved wife, with whom he had 14 children.
Shah Jahan and Mumtaz were engaged when she was 11 and he was twelve. They married when he was 20 and she was 19 on the date set by the astrologers. Shah Jahan took Mumtaz everywhere with him, which was unusual for an Emperor to do. He also gave her important positions within his government and granted her the power to make rulings and decisions in his absence. This is a reflection of his love for and trust in her.
When Mumtaz started having complications after delivering their 14th child, it became clear that she was going to die. She asked Shah Jahan to promise her three things. First to always take care of the children, second to never remarry, and third to build her a nice tomb for the family to visit. She was only 38 years old.
He kept these promises to her. He even picked out a spot to have his own mausoleum built across the river from hers. His was to be built out of black marble in contrast to the white marble used for hers. You can look across the river and see where the site was excavated, where the complex walls were to be built and even where the mausoleum itself was to be constructed.
Yumana River
However, during this time, the couple’s youngest son had grown up and decided he wanted to be Emperor, now, not after his father died. He had his two older brothers killed and his father imprisoned in the guesthouse that overlooks the river on the grounds of the Taj Mahal. The Emperor stayed imprisoned here for the remaining 8 years of his life. Upon his death he was entombed next to his beloved Mumtaz.
Interesting side note; as a young man, Shah Jahan also had his two older brothers assassinated so that he could become the Emperor.
The Taj Mahal is more than beautiful, it honestly took my breath away and is one of the most remarkable man-made structures I have ever seen. It truly is a wonder to behold and I feel so lucky that I was able to go and see it and stroll through the grounds.
Our Delhi & Taj Mahal Video
Rishikesh is a spiritual city and the world capital of yoga located where the Ganga River flows from the mountains.
If you are debating about where you should go for your next vacation, or for that once-in-a-lifetime travel experience, let me introduce you to Istanbul, Türkiye (formerly Turkey) and you can see for yourself if this exotic destination is for you. Once home to Sultans and Emperors, Istanbul is one of the great historic cities of the world. Food, culture, history, adventure, shopping, Istanbul has it all!
Getting to Know Istanbul
Istanbul was the most visited city in the world in 2023, followed by London, and then Dubai. We spent a whole month here. You can easily see most of the famous sights in a week, but like I said, we are slow travelers. We love spending longer in a location and getting to know the people, the culture, finding the best local places to eat, and visiting some off the beaten path places. Istanbul is also known for being a shopping and medical/dental tourism destination. But the history here is what captured me.
Galata Neighborhood
We always try to stay in a local neighborhood, if possible, and we had a nice room at a boutique hotel that was in a great neighborhood called Karakoy. We were very happy to find that our street had a small local breakfast place where we discovered the wonderful Turkish coffee. Plus a great little grocery store and a few tasty local restaurants, all very reasonably priced. We became regulars in all these places. After our first few visits to these establishments, we felt like part of the neighborhood as we were greeted warmly and exchanged small talk with the proprietors. Just on our street we enjoyed tasty lamb Adana Kebap, and Pide (pee-day) or Turkish pizza. I also discovered Çig Kofte. A vegetarian dish consisting of a paté made from bulgar wheat, herbs, and spices. It is formed into patties and put into a lavash wrap along with fresh veggies and sauce. I was hooked on this dish!
Adana BebapPideÇig KofteÇig Kofte
Our neighborhood was also very close to a tram station, and in walking distance to quite a few historical sites. One of the first things I noticed after we arrived, were pet sized food and water dishes outside of almost every business and residence in the city. This is because Istanbul is a city of cats. So if you’re a cat person, you’ll love it.
For a big city, Istanbul is very easy to get around. There are taxis everywhere, but that can add up pretty quickly. One of the first things we did was to buy ourselves Istanbul cards. This card gets you on the metro tram, public buses, ferry boats, and even into public toilets. You can get the card from a machine anywhere there is a metro station or a ferry terminal. You load some money onto it and it’s ready to swipe whenever you want to get on any form of public transportation, and you can top it up as needed. We used our cards to get around the city and to take ferries cross the Bosphorus to the Asian side of Istanbul and it really saved us a lot of money. The trams and ferries are all modern, clean, and air-conditioned. Since this is a big tourist destination, English is widely spoken and used in signage at all public transportation stops, ATMs, and most everywhere else. It also seemed that there was a friendly person that asked us if we needed help when we seemed confused by something. The people here are part of this city’s charm.
Old TramNew Tram
I have to set the scene with a little bit of historical background to show how dynamic this city really is. Sitting at the crossroads where Europe meets Asia, Istanbul is an ancient city, and I was overwhelmed by the amount of history here. Founded in 657 BC, and known as Byzantium, over the centuries it was ruled by the Greeks, Persians, Spartans, Athenians, and Macedonians before becoming part of the Roman Empire. In 324 BC the city was conquered by Constantine the Great, and it became Constantinople. The seat of the Roman Empire was moved from Rome to Constantinople, and Christianity was adopted, legalized, and made the state religion by the Emperor Constantine. I mention this because there is a lot of religious history here.
Golden Horn
In 1453, the city was conquered by the Ottoman Empire and the official religion became Islam. Then in 1923, after the Turkish War for Independence, the Republic of Turkey was established under Mustafa Ataturk. As the country’s first president, Ataturk modernized Türkiye’s culture and led the nation into becoming a modern European country. The city officially became known as Istanbul in 1930.
The Hippodrome
The first place we visited was the Sultan Ahmet Square, where three must visit sites are in close walking distance to each other. The Hippodrome, the Hagia Sophia, and the Blue Mosque. The enormous Sultanahmet Square itself is where the Hippodrome stood for over 1,000 years. Built in 203 AD, this was an arena used for chariot racing. Talk about fascinating! In 324 AD the Emperor Constantine had it enlarged to hold 100,000 spectators. This was the center of the city’s social life, and huge amounts of money were wagered here. There were 4 racing teams, each consisting of 2 chariots pulled by 4 horses, and each team was sponsored by a political party.
Obelisk of Emperor Theodosius
Once adorned with great works of art and even bronze statues of famous chariot drivers and their horses, none of that remains today. But you can still see the remains of Emperor Constantine’s Serpent Column, and the obelisk of Emperor Theodosius the Great, which he brought all the way from Luxor, Egypt. Standing in the middle of this huge space, I found it exciting to imagine the chariot races and everything else that went on here for centuries.
The Hagia Sofia
At one end of the Hippodrome stands the Hagia Sofia, which translates to Holy Wisdom. If I had the opportunity to visit only one thing in Istanbul, I would pick this. Built in 532 AD, under Emperor Justinian I, the Hagia Sofia is a representation of outstanding Byzantine architecture and art, and a major cultural and historical site here in Istanbul. The first of it’s kind, it’s dome alone is said to have changed the history of architecture. Built by the Eastern Roman Empire, this was the principal church of the Byzantine Empire in the capital of Constantinople, now known as Istanbul.
Hagia Sophia
It is described as “holding a unique place in Christian history” because for almost 1,000 years this was the world’s largest cathedral, and the center of religion for the Eastern Orthodox Church. In 1453 the city was conquered by the Ottoman Empire and it was converted to a Mosque and remains so today. I was blown away by the beauty of not only the building itself, but also the amazing mosaic art decorating the walls, that reflect its history of being both a Christian church and a Muslim mosque.
The Hagia Sofia is still an operating mosque today, but everyone is welcome to come in and tour the second level and the grounds, during non-worship hours. Even though the Hagia Sofia, and the entire country, were taken by the conquest of the Ottomans in 1453, and the cathedral turned into a mosque, the beautiful Christian mosaics inside were not destroyed. You can still see this beautiful artwork today that reflects Jesus, the Emperor, the Empress, the Apostle John, and Mary with baby Jesus. Throughout the centuries and the countless battles fought here, these mosaics were never destroyed and stand as timeless witnesses to the cultural and religious history not only of this building, but of the city itself.
Interesting fact, on the marble railing that surrounds the second level, there is a small portion with a protective covering where you can see that someone carved their name into the marble. It says Halvdan. He was a Viking soldier serving in the Emperor’s Royal Guard. I find it funny that someone would be brave, or stupid, enough to carve their name into the Emperor’s new cathedral.
The Blue Mosque
At the opposite end of the Hippodrome you will see the domes of the beautiful Blue Mosque, one of the most iconic and visited places in the city. This popular monument of Ottoman architecture is officially known as the Sultan Ahmet Mosque. This historical imperial monument was built in 1609. It remains a functioning mosque today, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Blue Mosque
Inside it is decorated with thousands of Iznik tiles and hand painted motifs in various shades of blue, giving it it’s popular name. This place was packed with tourists from all over the world, but it is so large inside that it never felt crowded or overwhelming. This site is free to enter, and is truly beautiful to see.
The Spice Bazaar
Istanbul has two iconic, and ancient bazaars. The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar is Istanbul’s most famous bazaar. But I opted to visit the Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar. Built in 1664, the Spice Bazaar wins the prize for being the most colorful, and fragrant ancient bazaar.
Spice Bazaar
This market offers just about every spice you can think of, and some I had never heard of, all heaped in colorful pyramids. It’s a feast for the eyes as well as the nose. Aside from the spices, you can find every kind of tea you ever dreamed of, along with the famous Turkish Delight candies of every color and flavor. I sampled several of these and had to buy a small bag.
You can also find herbal remedies, perfumes, dried fruits, nuts, baklava, olive oils, cheeses, Turkish coffees, Turkish rugs, incredible brass, silver, and ceramic wares, and my favorite the beautiful Turkish lamps, and so much more! And the vendors do expect you to haggle with them over prices. There was so much to see inside the covered market and it continued on into the streets surrounding the outside. It was great fun and I will definitely be visiting the Grand Bazaar on my next trip to Istanbul.
Galata Bridge
The Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn which gets its name from its horn shape. This waterway is the primary inlet of the Bosphorus Strait in Istanbul, where the strait meets the Sea of Marmara. The Galata Bridge carries vehicles, pedestrians, and a tram line. This is the fifth version of the bridge to be built here on this site. This romantic looking bridge has been the subject of many paintings, poems, books, and featured in several movies, and it is also known to be an iconic fishing spot. There are two walking levels on the bridge, and in 2003 restaurants started to open on the underside of the bridge. We passed several hot afternoons here enjoying a plate of fried anchovies and a beer. You can sit back and watch the fishermen reel their catch in to the top level, there is also a killer view on both sides of the bridge.
Galata Bridge
On the Eminonu side of the bridge you can find these beautiful boats that sell a famous fish sandwich called Balik Ekmek, meaning fish and bread. These were quite tasty, but I much preferred the fish wrap found on the Karakoy side of the bridge. Small vendors with coolers full of fresh fish and a grill. Lavash flatbread, grilled fish, fresh veggies, and sauces made for a great and affordable meal.
Fun fact, It is even thought that the card game “Bridge” acquired its name because the British soldiers who invented it, crossed the Galata Bridge on their way to their favorite coffee houses. The bridge is nice to walk across and just take in the scenery and watch the fishermen, and a very convenient way to see more of the city.
Basilica Cistern
One of the few things not in walking distance for us was the Basilica Cistern. We took the tram, and it was quick and easy. Arriving early, we were among the first few to enter and enjoyed this massive place with only a handful of other tourists.
Basilica Cistern
Built in the 6th century, the subterranean Basilica Cistern is another amazing piece of history and ingenuity. This is an ancient aqueduct that carried water from 12 miles away to be stored here in the cistern for the city’s elite to use. The 336 columns that support this underground cistern are actually recycled marble and granite columns from older buildings that were in the area at that time. Wow, it makes you wonder how old those buildings were! These columns include two massive blocks from the late Roman period, that are carved with the head of the Medusa. These blocks were placed upside down to negate the power of the Gorgon’s gaze, and are pretty amazing.
Once holding almost 3 million cubic feet of water, only a small amount is kept in the cistern today for aesthetic purposes. This place has been featured in quite a few movies and I can see why. It is enormous inside, and the color changing lights give it an other-worldly and mesmerizing feel. The closer I looked at the ancient support columns, the more impressed I became. Some of them are intricately carved with flowers or vines, or Ancient Greek writing. As its name suggests, the Basilica Cistern is grand in scale and definitely worth a visit.
Galata Tower
The Galata Tower is an old Genoese tower in the Galata section of the Beyoglu (Bay-oh-Lou) district. Just a few blocks walk from our hotel, the tower was built at the highest point of the ancient walls of Galata. It has been a watchtower for invaders, then used as a prison for over 200 years, and then as a lookout tower for fires. The tower is a historical symbol of this area, and it is really beautiful at night. It actually gets quite congested in the evenings and a little hectic. We walked up to it one evening and it was lovely. Then we went back early one morning to take pictures before all the tourists rolled in.
Galata Tower
We opted to view it from the outside and skipped the $25.00 entrance fee and climb to the top. The tower is surrounded by some nice restaurants and a variety of shops. It was at one of these small restaurants that we first tried Midye Dolma.
Midye Dolma
Popular as a street food and in restaurants, these are steamed mussels stuffed with aromatic rice. A squeeze of fresh lemon on the top and they truly delicious. My husband and I would polish off about 60 every time we went out for them.
Sulaymaniye Mosque
There are 3,000 mosques here in Istanbul and many of them are very impressive. We had visited a few already and one that absolutely deserves a mention is the Sulaymaniye Mosque. It is beautiful and spacious inside, covered with amazing tile work. The outside is surrounded by lovely lawns and gardens. This mosque is one of the best known sites in Istanbul and offers a commanding view of the Golden Horn. It is also one of the largest Ottoman era mosque in the city. It was built in 1550 by Suliman the Magnificent. I love that name. I love all these ancient rulers names here, they end with the magnificent, the great, the mighty, the supreme, Emperor, or Cesar. These guys let it be known what they were all about. You can also visit the cemetery where the mausoleums of Suliman the Magnificent and his wife Hurrem Sultan can be found. Her mausoleum is especially lovely inside, covered with the blue Iznik tiles. This site is also free to visit.
Sulaymaniye Mosque
Kadikoy
One morning we took one of the many ferries that cross the strait, to check out the Kadikoy neighborhood on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Kadikoy was actually named one of the 50 “coolest” neighborhoods in the world, along with being the liberal cultural center of the Anatolian side of Istanbul. Even though this area is home to many bars, cafes, restaurants, and shops, it still has a more relaxing vibe than the European side does. This laid back area is famous for its fish and produce markets. Knowing that, we decided to just spend the whole day here and check it all out.
I loved wondering the streets here. The fresh fish and produce were amazing to look at, as was the neighborhood itself. After wondering around for an hour or so, we stopped at a corner bakery for some Baklava and Çay (Turkish tea). This was delightful. The shopping here was great as well. I ended up with a new outfit and some Nazar Boncugu, or the famous Blue Eye talismans, to take home for gifts. We had a wonderful seafood lunch at one of the restaurants adjacent to the fish market.
This is where I tried Raki for the first time. It’s popular to drink along with, and after meals here in Turkey. I liked Raki more than I thought I would. With its strong anise flavor, poured over ice and a touch of water, I actually fell in love with the refreshing taste.
We ended up coming over here to spend another day during our time in Istanbul. During this trip we had a tasty lunch of Manti. This local dish features small ravioli like pouches stuffed with chunks of lamb. Topped with yogurt and either a garlic or a tomato sauce, it is amazing! I think I would like to stay here in the Kadikoy neighborhood on our next visit.
Manti
Topkapi Palace
One of the top sites in all of Istanbul, and one that really blew my mind, is the Topkapi Palace. Located in the old historic district of Fatih (Fought E). This palace served for 400 years as the administrative center for the Ottoman Empire and as a residence for the reigning sultan. Even after the court was moved to the new Dolmabahce Palace in 1857, Topkapi retained some of it’s functions serving as the imperial treasury, library, and mint.
At the end of the Ottoman Empire in 1923, the state turned Topkapi palace into a museum and library and is it ever grand. With over 400 rooms, covering 175 acres and surrounded by high walls, this place was so much more than what I was expecting. With majestic views, beautiful grounds and rose gardens, this sprawling palace made me feel like I was in a movie or had stepped into the past. From the lavish architecture and fountains, to the fine furnishings and Turkish carpets, this place was definitely made for Sultans. The enormous kitchens, which fed over 1,000 people a day, contain one of the world’s largest collections of Chinese blue and white and Celadon porcelain. These were favored by the sultans as it was believed that the color of the porcelain would change if the food contained poison.
Topkapi Dagger
The royal treasury was part museum, part fine jewelry display, and contains some of the finest treasures of the Ottoman age, including the famous bejeweled Topkapi Dagger, and the 83 karat Spoon Maker’s Diamond. I was overwhelmed by the stunning displays of not only jewelry, but gold and jewels that decorated everyday items the Sultan and his family used, such as hand held mirror, brushes, combs, and perfume bottles.
The royal treasury also contains the Harem. The Harem was home to the sultan’s mother, the Valide Sultan. She oversaw the 300 concubines and wives of the Sultan, and the rest of his family including his children, their servants, and eunuchs. She even chose the Sultan’s concubines and wives for him.
One thing the royal treasury held that I had no idea about, and was surprised by, was the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle where holy relics are kept. The Sultan was only allowed in this room once a year, on the 15th day of Ramadan. Now visitors pass through it daily. For me, this was the most fascinating areas of the palace and contains to many precious relics for me to go over here. But the beauty of this ancient palace and the history these walls hold should not be missed. It really conjures up the imagination. The entrance fee here is $46 USD and if you have to choose between the two palaces of Topkapi and Dolmabache, I personally would choose this one. We skipped Dolmabache Palace because being built in 1857 and having electricity and plumbing, it is considered modern. I know it is grand as well, so I will tour it on our next visit.
Gulhane Park
Gulhane Park sits on the grounds of the Topkapi Palace. This historical park is the oldest and one of the most expansive parks in all of Istanbul. Opened to the public in 1912, it is home to several of Istanbuls fantastic museums. You can definitely connect with nature here, right in the heart of the historic center. There are groups of small green parrots that nest in holes in the ancient castle walls that line one side of the park. They are a real treat to see out fluttering from tree to tree. And it is free to enter.
Simit
We stopped here to rest after touring the Topkapi Palace and got a Simit from the cart at the park entrance. Reminiscent of a large, thin bagel or soft pretzel, and covered with toasted sesame seeds, the Simit is a staple here in Istanbul. A tasty treat for about .30 cents!
Bosphorus Long Cruise
An essential part of any trip to Istanbul is traveling from one part on the city to another by ferry boat. There are also lots of short sightseeing cruises you can take, but nothing beats setting aside a whole day for the Bosphorus Long Cruise. It is very affordable, and you get to travel nearly the entire length of the strait from the sea of Marmara right up to the third bridge near the Black Sea. The entire trip takes around six and half hours. Leaving at 10:35 am and returning around 5:00 pm. The total cruising time is four hours roundtrip. The best part is you get two and half hours of free time as the boat docks at the quaint village of Anadolu Kavağı.
The ticket office is located at Eminonu Pier just to the east of the Galata Bridge. The ticket booth opens at 10:00 am and there is no need to buy tickets in advance as the boat has plenty of seating. There are three seating levels on the boat and include plenty of indoor (with AC) and outdoor seating, also restrooms and a snack bar. The views of Istanbul at the start of the trip are wonderful and you get a glimpse into the importance of the Bosphorus strait as an international trade route. You cruise past so many interesting and historic places like the Dolmabahce Palace and the Rumeli Fort. In spots you find yourself surrounded by beautiful neighborhoods clinging to the river banks and lining the hills. There are a few stops along the way to collect more passengers, and before you know it you get your first glimpse of the impressive Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge and soon after, you dock at Anadolu Kavağı.
As soon as we disembarked from the boat we immediately followed the signs up to the Yoros Castle ruins. It was only about a 15 minute walk. The views from the hilltop are breathtaking and the castle ruins make for some nice pictures. It is a ruins, so you are free to just wander around at your own leisure. Originally settled by the Phoenicians and the Greeks in the BC era, many temple remains have been discovered all around this area.
After our short explorations we walked back down the hill and ended up at a great restaurant called Kavak Doğanay, which I highly recommend. It sits right on the water and I had some of the best Calamari I have ever eaten, and an amazing whole fish stewed in a tomato and pepper sauce. All to soon it was time to board the boat for our journey back. Please check out our Bosphorus Long Cruise video.
We spent a whole month in Istanbul discovering so many amazing places and so much delicious food. If you haven’t already, please check out our two Guides to Istanbul, YouTube videos that highlight what to see and do in this amazing city. I was truly impressed, and we do plan to return to Istanbul. On our next visit I would also like to see Troy, Ephesus, and do the whole Black Sea coast.
We have been slow traveling going on three years now and I sometimes I can hardly believe the amazing places and things we have seen. It makes us want to keep going, and our bucket list is just as long, or longer, than when we started.
Guadalajara, home of the Mariachi and the cultural center of Mexico. We did a long weekend trip from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara. It was only a short 40 minute flight on one of the most organized airlines I have ever flown. Instead of passengers all jumping up and grabbing their bags from the overhead, everyone stays seated until the stewardess gets to your section. She takes four rows at a time and those passengers get up, get their bags and exit the plane. Then she moves to the next four rows. It really made getting off the plane much easier and faster. I wish all airlines did this.
Guadalajara Art
I really had no idea what to expect and was very excited to see what was in store. As it turned out, Guadalajara is a wonderful place to visit. A city of 5 million, Guadalajara is really big, and there was no way we could see everything we wanted in one long weekend. The city is peppered with large works of art, sculptures, and elaborate fountains and gardens. We stayed right in the historic center and I was overwhelmed by the beautiful buildings and cathedrals. I actually felt like I could have been in a European city. Most of these historic buildings surround a very large square where people, vendors, and street entertainers gather every evening.
Parked along one side of this square were horse drawn carriages, many of them very elaborate and beautiful. Early on Sunday morning, we did a carriage ride that took us past many historic buildings and down some beautiful streets. While stopped at a red light, we noticed that one lane of traffic on the main road had been completely closed down for bicyclists. It seems that every Sunday, one lane of the main road, and some side streets, are completely closed down to traffic just so people can get out and ride their bikes without having to worry about traffic. After our carriage ride we decided to walk the main avenue and check it all out. There were single cyclists, couples, and whole families out riding their bikes.
Carriage
There were even groups of skateboarders joining in. If you don’t own a bike there were many places you could rent one for the day very cheaply. Everything started from the round-about and went out from there. There were also many vendors out and live music playing, and just an atmosphere of fun. We even passed a large outdoor Zumba class going on. What a great way to inspire people to get out and get some exercise and promote family activity. It was really fun.
We stayed in a historic location called the Hotel Franceś. This hotel is over 400 years old! It’s stone walls are three feet thick, and the interior is all polished wood, and marble. The lobby features a beautiful stone fountain, a giant crystal chandelier, and a stained glass ceiling. It is truly lovely and I am sure that it is haunted. There were several truly strange and surreal occurrences during our stay, but I would definitely stay here again. There were blood curdling screams in the wee hours on our third night. Our second night was the strangest. Coming back from dinner, we walked into the immense lobby and found a Mariachi show going on. Tables and chairs that had not been there when we went out were set up in front of the stage and there were at least 60 or 70 people seated and drinking for the show.
Hotel Franceś
Everyone sitting at the tables were dressed in a very old style of clothing, with hair styled to match. Even the Mariachi band’s suits did not look modern. There was no hotel staff to be seen, so we sat down and watched the show for a bit. But it just felt off, we got an eerie feeling and went up to our room. The next morning when we went out to breakfast, all the tables, chairs and stage were gone. There was no sign that anything had taken place the night before. We asked the daytime concierge about it and he said didn’t know anything about it. Then he said that it happens about once a month. We
Hotel Franceś
Being over 400 years old, it has a storied history. In more recent decades it has been in a few movie scenes as well. Even the old Charles Bronson movie, “The Evil That Men Do”. Guadalajara felt a little surreal, like you were stepping into the past in some places. Especially in the historic center, with it’s horse drawn carriages, gaslit street lamps, fountains, and gardens. This place really had some historical ambiance.
Cathedral of GuadalajaraCathedral of Guadalajara
Originating here in the state of Jalisco in the 1700s, Guadalajara is the home of the Mariachi, whose music has become a symbol of Mexico around the world. I love a Mariachi band, anywhere you visit in Mexico you’re sure to find one. You can now find Mariachi bands in many countries around the world as well. There is even an International Mariachi Festival every September featuring over 500 Mariachi bands from around the world. I would love to be in town for that. There are many shops here that sell the most elaborate Mariachi costumes, or traje de Charro. Near our hotel was a rooftop restaurant called El Mariachi. In addition to its great food, and beautiful view overlooking the Cathedral of Guadalajara, they had a 13 piece Mariachi band that was so outstanding. There’s nothing like having a song played directly to you by amazing musicians and singers. Talk about a fun evening, and one of the many reasons I love Mexico.
The historic center contains some beautiful, and immense buildings. One of them being the Teatro Degollado. Unfortunately it was still closed due to the pandemic and we did not get to see the Jalisco Philharmonic Orchestra, which would have been fantastic. There were a few people from the orchestra playing in the square and they were amazing. This orchestra is over 100 years old and is not only one of the premier orchestras in Latin America, but also in the world.
Other historic buildings in the square that we were only able to see from the outside included the Supreme Court building, the Building of the Governor of the State of Jalisco, and the Guadalajara Regional Museum.
This historic square is a gathering place in the evenings and on weekends. We strolled through here every evening just to see what all was happening. There was live music, some very interesting puppet shows, clowns, all types of food carts, and toy and souvenir vendors. Pretty much something to entertain everyone.
Cathedral of GuadalajaraCathedral of GuadalajaraGuadalajara
We did get to go inside the Cathedral of Guadalajara and is it ever beautiful. Completed in 1618, the inside of this cathedral is a work of art with its ten altars, stained glass and marble. It also contains a glass coffin with the mummified body of Santa Innocencia, a young girl who was killed by her father in 1700 for converting to Catholicism. I found this fascinating. Pope Pius XII elevated the cathedral to the status of a minor basilica. It has also survived six earthquakes with only minor damage. It is absolutely worth a visit.
Cathedral of GuadalajaraCathedral of Guadalajara
We spent one morning at the Mercado Libertad, the largest indoor market in Latin America. Opened 65 years ago, this market is open 365 days a year and is frequented by locals and tourists. The Mercado has everything from fresh meats and vegetables to eyeglasses, saddles, and video games, plus anything else you can think of. You can also find many little eateries offering some of the most delicious Mexican foods. With three different levels, there is so much to take in here and we did our best to see it all in one morning. I got mesmerized in the handmade leather shoe section by some truly beautiful shoes. Unfortunately, not my size.
Market FoodMarketChilaquiles
Another great area to walk is the Avenida Vallarta. Wide sidewalks, mature shady trees, lush gardens, and historic Colonia Americana mansions. Some are open to tour, one is a museum, and some are still family homes. We found ourselves strolling this grand avenue several times.
Tlaquepaque
We visited a city within a city, Tlaquepaque. It’s complete historical name is San Pedro Tlaquepaque (ta-la-key-pa-key). We took a taxi to this small city of 571,000 that at one time had been located outside of Guadalajara, but over the decades it has been more than encompassed by the city. Amazingly, it still retains its own name, its own city status, and its own flair. We had a great time as we got in on their weekend market that was set up in the park in front of the cathedral. It was filled with beautiful Mexican clothing, handicrafts, art, and jewelry. I bought a lovely necklace and earrings that have colorful, tiny little Mexican clay pots and cups. Tlaquepaque has long been the home of talented artisans and craftsman and is known for its pottery, textiles, and hand blown glass.
Tlaquepaque
Several of the main streets here are closed to all but pedestrian traffic which allows you to stroll through the cobble stone streets, alleys, plazas, and gardens. We walked the Calle Independencia, the vibrant main street of this area, browsing all the boutique stores and art galleries.
Parroquia San Pedro Apostal
Located, one on each end of park, were two lovely cathedrals. First we went to the Parroquia San Pedro Apostal, or the Saint Peter the Apostle Parish. Dating back to the 1600s and constructed by Franciscan monks, this lovely cathedral contains some priceless works of religious art that are definitely worth seeing. At the other end of the park is the Sanctuario Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, or the Our Lady of Solitude Sanctuary. Opened in 1813 this cathedral is beautiful inside as well, while being completely different from the first one.
Sanctuario Nuestra Senora de la SoledadSanctuario Nuestra Senora de la Soledad
We also went to the Sergio Bustamonte Art Gallery. Large sculptures line the street in front of the gallery, and the gallery itself is filled with his wonderful and imaginative sculptures and paintings. His work is so unique and distinguished, it’s like stepping into another world. He has a couple of large sculptures displayed on the malecon in Puerto Vallarta and a gallery there as well. This gallery is lovely and even has an outdoor area with amazing works on display. Surprisingly, it is free and I am really glad we took advantage of the opportunity to see more of his amazing work. It is also air-conditioned inside and I really needed to take advantage of that for a few minutes.
Sergio Bustamonte ArtSergio Bustamonte ArtSergio Bustamonte Art
We stopped for lunch at a really nice restaurant called Restaurante Casa Luna that offered outdoor seating in the shade, with misters, to keep you cool. We discovered a new drink here called the Cazuela. Made with grapefruit and other citrus juices, mezcal, a touch of salt, and poured over ice. It is served in a carved gourd bowl that sits on a wooden tripod, making a very nice presentation. After a tasty lunch of Bistec Molcajetes and a couple of Cazuelas, we headed back into Guadalajara.
Torta Ahogada
Before we knew it our Guadalajara weekend was over and we were flying back to Puerto Vallarta. We packed so much into our long weekend and I definitely plan to visit Guadalajara again in the future to spend more than just a long weekend. I still need to see the Philharmonic at the Teatro Degollado, and tour the museum. I have always wanted to see the Lucha Libre, and this would be the place to do it. I also want to stay at the Hotel Frances again, at least one night.
Our Guadalajara YouTube Video
Guanajuato is a historical treasure in Mexico’s highlands and is know for being one of the countries most beautiful cities.
On my quest to see wild Orangutans, I had to stay in a couple of different cities in Borneo before setting off for my wildlife adventure. We took an hour and a half long flight from Kuala Lumpur to the city of Kota Kinabalu, or KK. This was not like any other city in Malaysia that we had previously visited. We had gotten mixed reviews about it, but found it to be a delightful place to visit. Originally a fishing village dating back to the 1500s, this slow growing port city did not even receive “city” status until the year 2000. Now, with its two sea ports, it is the commercial and industrial capital of Borneo and the fastest growing city in all of Malaysia. KK has also become Borneo’s tourism capital and gateway to Borneo with pristine waters for diving and snorkeling, beautiful beaches, rainforests, Mount Kinabalu, and diverse wildlife, including Orangutans. They are the main reason I came here.
We had a nice room just a few blocks from the waterfront promenade, and we definitely took advantage of that. On our first night there we had fish and chips at an Irish Pub overlooking the water. The ocean front promenade here has a nice selection of local and international restaurants, bars, coffee shops, cafes, and nightclubs. We enjoyed ourselves here on several occasions, one being my birthday. We celebrated my birthday dinner on the waterfront at a nice little Italian restaurant called Gusto Food & Wine Cucina Italiana. They had a nice wine room where the owner recommended different bottles of wine to go with the food. It was a great birthday dinner sitting over the water and watching a glorious sunset.
Another place we liked to eat is the famous Waterfront Seafood Night Market. Open from 5:00 pm to midnight every night, you can find almost any type of seafood you’ve ever dreamed about here. Each vendors stall offers a wide variety of fresh seafood and hawkers actively try to get you to come to their stall. Displayed on ice, you choose the type of fresh raw seafood you want. The array of seafood offered was amazing, and it was caught that day. If it’s not still alive, they show you the signs for freshness like clear eyes, red inside the gills, firm flesh, no smell. Then they bring you their menu so you can choose side dishes to go with it and they also recommend the best way to cook the seafood you’ve chosen.
SEAFOOD NIGHT MARKET
We were then seated at a table to await our seafood feast! I chose a good sized white snapper, some of the biggest prawns I had ever seen, and some squid for a starter. For the sides I kept it simple choosing rice and sautéed morning glory, which is a lot like spinach. You are expected to haggle with them on the prices, but none of the seafood seemed overpriced to me. I always compare prices to what it would cost me back home in the U.S. This place is packed every night, so we had to wait a little bit for our order, which was fine, since we were seated at a table overlooking the water. We sipped our fresh coconuts while watching a beautiful sunset. The first to arrive was the squid, which was tender, tasty, done to perfection and soon gone. Then came the prawns and the white snapper. The prawns were like eating lobster, firm, sweet, and juicy! The grilled white snapper was exceptionally delicious. The morning glory was sautéed with garlic and chilis and delicious. We never got the rice, but that’s okay, I would not have been able to fit it in. An excellent seafood feast in a great location.
As usual, we look for good, cheap, local places to eat and we found a great place we liked for breakfast called Sri Latha Curry House. Our usual became the Roti Telur which is a roti bread with an egg cooked inside, with a side of curry sauce and black coffee. We even found a decent burger here at a place called Damn Good Burger. Another fav was the Aachi Curry House where we had dinner on several occasions. Their Fish Curry on banana leaf and Nasi Goreng were delicious. We both love the food in Malaysia and it seems that no matter where we go, we have a good meal. Malaysia is not a good place to start a diet, there are just to many tasty dishes!
SRI LATHA CURRY HOUSE
One of the most popular gathering spots here is Tanjung Aru Beach. Known for being the best place to watch the sunset here in Kota Kinabalu, we had to check it out. We had been told that people start gathering for sunset at around 5:00 pm and if we wanted to avoid the traffic jam we should go a little earlier. Were they ever right, I could not believe the traffic! Luckily our Grab (like Uber) driver knew a short cut, through the airport parking lot no less, and we arrived with time to spare. I was expecting a very small and crowded beach, but I could not have been more wrong. There definitely were a lot of people here, but the beach was huge, both wide and long. The setting sun silhouetted the para-sails, jet skis, and hydrofoil surfers.
TANJUNG ARU
There was beach volleyball and soccer games going on, and families building sand castles and just a lot of fun in general. Besides the beautiful beach, activities, and sunset, the Tanjung Aru Beach Night Market is here as well. There was live music and many people dressed as cartoon characters wandering around. These characters seem to be popular every where we visit. The market is open nightly from 5:00 pm to midnight and you can find a wide variety of foods, crafts, and souvenirs here. Unfortunately, most of it was what I would classify as junk food, not really dinner fare. Although we did sample a few things that were tasty. This place is so popular that when we booked a Grab to go back to our room, they had a designated pick-up spot, and a waiting line. It was a fun evening and I have to agree, it is a great place to see a breathtaking sunset.
DINAWAN ISLAND
Above, I mentioned my birthday dinner. For the day of my birthday, Aaron booked a boat tour to a private island called Dinawan Island. It was fantastic. We went down to a dock on the river and caught a boat that took us out to sea. It was a beautiful day for boating, snorkeling, and chilling on a tropical island. After boarding the boat, they took us to a snorkeling spot that was rich with corals and tropical fish. The temperature of the water was perfect. I hadn’t snorkeled for a couple of years and I was very excited to get into the water. The tour guide told us what types of fish lived here and to be looking for them. I spotted all but one, the Black Tipped Reef Shark. They are very shy, non-aggressive, and not dangerous, but I would have liked to see one. After snorkeling, we set off for Dinawan Island. You can do tours that will take you to multiple islands in a day, but we chose the tour with just one island so we could take advantage of more snorkeling and additional activities. Dinawan Island is a small, private island and limits visitors to 20 a day. There are a few rooms to rent if you want to stay a night or two, but you can’t see them and they can’t see the day visitors section.
The island itself is absolutely stunning. The varying shades of turquoise water, fine white sandy beach, lush green tropical plant life. There was a huge school of fish surrounding the dock as we were crossing the bridge to the island. After being greeted with a cold juice, we did more snorkeling from the shore, some beach combing, and just relaxed. They served up a great lunch here that was included with the tour. After lunch we relaxed in the shade a bit and then did a little trip around the lagoon in a double kayak. After that we tried out our paddle boarding skills. I have done SUP in Mexico and Hawaii and I really like it, and I’m not bad at it either. When you get tired you can just sit down and paddle, which is really nice. Next, we went hiking around the island a little ways so Aaron could fly the drone. He got some really nice footage of the island, but when bringing the drone in to land, he got to close to the overhanging branch of a tree and the drone hit it and crashed into the ocean. I saw it happen and went into the water to retrieve the drone. Aaron was able to save the footage from the SD card, but a few minutes after being pulled out of the water, the drone began to smoke. Accidents happen, sometimes you just have to go with the flow.
Another example of this is we wanted to take our own snorkels and masks on our snorkeling trip so we walked down to the Bazaar on the waterfront. Filled with all sorts of shops and stalls, we found two snorkeling sets and bought them. That night we went to take them out of the package and discovered they were “youth” sized. I don’t know why neither of us noticed that when we were looking at them. We kept the snorkels, but the masks were way to tight. The boat tour furnished us with masks so it was all good in the end, but we were a little disappointed as we had intended to keep these for upcoming trips.
On Sunday morning we walked over to the Gaya Street Sunday Market. We have visited many street markets and fairs in different countries, some of them are way to big and crowded, but this one was just the right size. Starting at 6:00 am and going until noon, two streets are closed to traffic in the Gaya neighborhood for the vendors. Set up like a farmers market, one street was all beautiful fresh flowers, potted plants, and locally grown produce. The colors and variety of fresh vegetables were amazing, I would be shopping here every Sunday if I lived here. The second street was clothing, handicrafts, antiques, souvenirs, and tasty treats. We did have to stop and take shelter at one point because a fast moving storm came through and dropped some rain. It was over quickly and we went on browsing. While we were in this area we found a great little Chinese restaurant and had some lunch. After finishing up at the street market and having lunch we checked out a few shops in the area and then headed back as the dark rain clouds were building up again.
SATURDAY MARKET
KK has a great museum that we spent several hours in. We always check out the museum where ever we happen to be. It is one of the best ways to learn about a places social and natural history and culture. The Sabah State Museum complex was huge. It not only contained the museum proper, it also had an ethnobotanic garden, zoo, heritage village, and the Sabah Art Gallery. The museum was impressive as it takes you through archeological collections from native tribes, even headhunters, up through contact and trade with other countries, through colonization to independence. They also have a great collection of traditional dress and musical instruments displayed. They had a very interesting display of an old Chinese ship wreck that had been found off the coast in the area. They had set it up under glass exactly as it had been found with all the Chinese porcelain and pottery ware sitting in sand as if were still on the bottom of the ocean. It was fascinating. The museum was hosting an exhibition of ancient painted Chinese screens that were absolutely stunning. The ethnobotanic garden and heritage village showing how their original stilt houses in the jungle had been built were also interesting. I can wander around a good museum for hours!
When visiting a Muslim country, or any country, I dress appropriately and am respectful of local social and religious observances. KK is a beach destination and definitely feels more laid back than some other Malaysian cities but, if you’re not at the beach you should be fully dressed to walk around town. That can be shorts and a tank top, but not your bathing suit. Kota Kinabalu was a place I had not expected to be going to, but I’m glad we did. It is so much more than just the jumping off place for a wildlife, diving, or snorkeling adventure. With friendly and welcoming people, it is a great little city to visit and spend a few days in.
I have visited so many new places since we started traveling the world and I am always excited to arrive and find out what all there is to see and do. I can’t even count the number of times I have been some place new and found out that I had just missed their biggest holiday, festival, or celebration of the year. This is always such a disappointing feeling. So I was very excited to learn that we would be in Pokhara, Nepal for the Holi Festival this year.
Originating from ancient Hindu mythology and philosophy, Holi is a festival of colors where people splash each other with bright colors to symbolize the victory of good over evil. These bright colors symbolize life, and coloring each other gives life to our wishes, making Holi a festival celebrating life, love, and passion.
A few days before the festival I noticed vendors had started selling “Happy Holi” tee shirts, and we quickly bought two. You need to either buy one of these very inexpensive tee shirts to wear on festival day, or have a shirt you don’t care about any more because the colors you get splashed with do not really wash out. I also had some travel pants that were on their last leg that I was also willing to sacrifice for the festival.
We love Nepal and the people here. During Holi, their kind and hospitable nature really shined through. I don’t think I have ever been in such a huge crowd where literally every body had a smile on their face and were having such a good time. The closest I can think of is the Songkran Water Festival in Thailand.
We left our hotel about 11:00 am on the big day and walked up the Main Street to see if anything was happening yet. We saw a few people splashed with a little color and that was about it. Then we reached one of the main streets that takes you to the lakeside and the vendors selling small baggies of bright colored powder were lined up. I started out buying five bags of various colored powders for .20 cents each. We continued on down to the lakeside and started walking the promenade. Three little girls, splashed with color from the tops of their heads down to their toes ran up and held out their hands, they were asking me for some powder. I put some in each of their hands after which they promptly splashed it all over me and ran away giggling. And just like that, it was on! As I continued to walk I started meeting more people who would rub color on my face, neck, or arms, or splash it on my tee shirt and shout “Happy Holi”. I walked by a group of kids that had squirt guns filled with colored water, and one even had a bucket of red water. They were trying to douse everyone going by and were having great fun giving, and receiving, large doses of color. We met up with so many people that would give you a small smear of color on your forehead and a hug, along with a “Happy Holi” wish and a big smile, and ask where we were from. They really demonstrated that the festival was all inclusive and open to everyone.
By the time I made it to the far end of the lakeside the crowd had really started to build up. In a large field by the lakeside a stage had been set up and DJs were blasting the tunes. People were dancing and dousing each other with color, setting off colored smoke bombs, and having the best time ever. One of the biggest drones I have ever seen was flying over the field and misting everyone with water to keep us cool. I got separated from Aaron for a while here. After looking for him and not seeing him anywhere, I got pulled into the crowd by some young people and just danced until I finally spotted him. We were needing a break at this point and went into one of the lakeside restaurants, the Bamboo, and had a beer and a little rest period.
Next, we decided to walk down to the Main Street and see what was going on. Here, we found traffic closed down and a large stage had been set up. Instead of a DJ, there was a live band playing AC/DC, and doing it quite well. We joined the crowd here and listened to some live classic rock and showering of colors for a bit. Then we headed to the opposite end of the lake. At this point I had bought 12 bags of color and I looked like I had been rolled in a box of melted crayons. I was having the best time ever. I think the adults were having every bit as much fun as the kids were, I know I was.
The opposite end of the lake had another field with stage and DJs going. It was really full on by this time. More and more people were gathering and the color was really being splashed. It was all just so much good fun. Nobody was getting out of hand or acting crazy, everyone was just having a great time. I don’t think I’ve ever been any place where I have received so many hugs and well wishes from complete strangers. Many even thanking us for coming to Nepal and celebrating with them. I absolutely loved it, and I love the warm hearted people here. By this time we were getting a little worn out so headed back to the Bamboo for some food and beers.
We were just in time too, shortly after arriving at the restaurant it started to rain. Not just a little one either. It effectively put a stop to the Holi Festival for the evening.
I am so happy that we got out early and joined in on the festivities. It was a super fun day. Best of all, I didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country surrounded by strangers. We have been in Pokhara long enough to know it pretty well, and it feels very familiar at this point. I really felt like I was just at a big party with many, many friends and we were all having a great time together. I think that is what the Holi Festival is really all about and I felt really blessed to be a part of it.
It’s funny how even the briefest of encounters can make your day. His face was old and weathered yet overwhelmingly friendly. As we walked towards each other on the narrow mountain road a car approached from behind. I carefully moved onto the shoulder avoiding any missteps by the roadside cliff while glancing back at the car.
As I turned my attention back in front of me I noticed the man had stopped as he didn’t want to pass without acknowledging my presence. He pressed his hands together and pulled them towards his chest as his warm smile gave way to his greeting. “Namaste,” he said. I returned in kind “Namaste.” And just like that he was behind me. It felt like such a pure moment. Maybe it was just two complete strangers passing on the road, but I felt something strong from this brief encounter and took it as a good omen for my journey ahead.
Shiva at PumdikotFewa Lake
I was returning from Pumdikot, the site of a large Shiva statue that adorns the hill overlooking Pokhara, Nepal and the beautiful Fewa Lake. I had spent the last few years at or near sea level and I had not really physically challenged myself in a very long time. I was trying to get in some last minute steps and altitude before starting my eight day trek to Annapurna Base Camp. A trek I didn’t really feel physically prepared for.
As I descended the steep rock steps towards Fewa Lake my left knee began to hurt. This had been one of my biggest concerns going into this trek. As I reached the lake I took a small paddle boat back to Pokhara’s Lakeside area knowing that I just needed to rest my body for the next two days before starting my trek.
The Start of a Long Journey
The journey to the trailhead was not what I expected. From Pokhara the drive took three hours. The Mahindra jeep was luckily up to the task as this was one crazy 4×4 road. I was really surprised at how far we drove, navigating the switch backs of the road cut into the mountain. Shrouded in clouds, I could see very little.
Magical ForestMagical Forest TrailShrouded in Clouds
We reached the trailhead and had a quick lunch before starting the trek. I was eager to get going. The first leg of the trek was lush and green. Large trees were covered in carpets of moss and surrounded by ferns. Standing out was the national flower of Nepal. These large Rhododendron trees were carrying their flowers in full bloom showing stunning shades of red and pink. I had not seen Rhododendron trees this big before and was immediately impressed with their size and the vibrancy they brought to the forest.
Rhododendron Tree Old Rhododendron Tree Rhododendron TreesHiking in the Rain
As we set out a gentle rain fell and took pause only to spray a fine mist. Visibility was very poor, yet walking in the clouds seemed to improve the feeling of this forest paradise. While I was unable to see the peaks that surrounded me I was still overcome with a sense of peace and happiness.
The Mystical ForestPrayer Flags
Along the trail, which was not steep at this point, streams rushed through narrow chasms cascading over falls and taking pause in pools below.
Part mud and part rock steps, the trail down to Ghodepani was steep and occasionally the forest would give way to a small village. Terraced fields showed spring crops braving the cold. Stone houses lined the trail as it passed through the villages. Here beautiful hand painted signs advertised lunch, tea and coffee to passing trekkers.
Potato GardensVillage Gardens
In shady spots along the trail, meticulously constructed rock walls were shelved with flat stone slabs. They were designed specifically for porters to set their heavy loads on as they took rest while awaiting their trekking party.
A Resting Spot
The knee was holding up thus far. Arriving at my first tea house after three hours, I was well aware this would be the easiest day of my trek. I was still ready to get my pack off. We timed it well as the rain really started just as I arrived in my room. I was feeling a little disoriented so I put on warm clothes and headed down to the dining area for a much needed cup of tea.
Ghore Pani
The dining area was warm as there was a barrel stove in the middle of the room. The stove pipe rose up to the second floor where my room was. Just big enough for a twin bed and my bag the room is all I really needed. Two toilets are located down the hall and a sink outside on the roof. There are two blankets and I don’t think I will bother with the sleeping bag tonight. I’ll just dress warm for bed and prepare for the 4:30am start tomorrow.
Ghore Pani
Sleep however can only be considered after dal bhat. I had intentionally been avoiding it since I arrived Nepal as I knew it would be the main meal for the duration of my trek. Now I found myself craving it and all of a sudden I was feeling as though I hadn’t eaten all day. Dal baht is the the staple food of Nepal and most people eat it twice a day, every day. It consists of rice, dal, some sort of cooked leafy greens and a curry flavored mixed vegetable. One great thing about dal baht is that it is bottomless. They will come by during your meal and refill your platter with as much as you can eat.
Dal Bhat
Feeling Lost in the Clouds
I never sleep well when I know I have to get up so early. I checked the time at 12:05am and 2:45am. I didn’t sleep again after that. As I started the climb to Poon Hill it didn’t seem cold. About half way up the ninety minutes of relentless stairs, I was sweating terribly and my base layer was soaked. Knowing full well there would be no view from the top I forged on. Again I was in the clouds. The view of the Annapurna range is meant to be spectacular from the top, but today it wasn’t meant to be. Once arriving at the top there was no sunrise too see but the wind combined with being soaked made it incredibly cold.
Poon Hill TowerSteps to Poon Hill
The hill was covered with about a hundred disappointed trekkers. For many this was their final destination and I felt bad for those who climbed the hill hoping for their one view of the Himalayas. I also was becoming a little worried that I might spend eight days in the clouds myself. The trip back down from Poon Hill was not a nice experience. I was cold and my legs were shaking uncontrollably. This much activity before coffee or breakfast does not suite me well. The worst part, descending all these stairs was making my knee hurt.
Poon Hill at Dawn
Once arriving back at the tea house I had about forty-five minutes to eat breakfast and get packed before heading out for another six hour trek. Breakfast was very good and consisted of an omelette, potatoes and a delicious Tibetan bread. The coffee was instant but it gave me the little bit of motivation I needed to hit the trail again.
Tibetan Bread Breakfast
The rest of the day was a slow slog on a very steep trail. First up for a long time and then down for a long time. Up rock stairs, down rock stairs then repeat for hours on end. A slow rain fell all morning making it slick and muddy. Going slow was imperative and if you didn’t you would be rudely reminded. At one point while stepping over some tree roots I leaned back a little too far. My front foot slipped and down I went into the mud. I got my hands under me to break my fall but my knee got stuck under me and a sharp pain shot up my leg. Back up to carry on as there really is no other option.
ABC TrailIn the Clouds
As we approached our lunch spot, a strong wind came up blowing the clouds off the hills and occasionally I caught a brief glimpse of my surroundings. It’s nice to at least get a reminder that I was trekking on a narrow path surrounded by steep drops below and huge cliffs that towered above.
Mountain Valleys
I finally arrived in Tadapani, my home for the night. As I arrived before any other guests I scored the room with the stove pipe passing through. The room was very warm so I was able to hang my wet clothes up to dry. Soon a large tour group of sixteen trekkers and sixteen porters arrived. Unfortunately there was only one toilet. As I went to bed I was hoping for even a slight improvement in the weather tomorrow as so far I hadn’t seen a single mountain peak.
Tea with No ViewHoping the weather will clear
The First Glimpse of Majestic Mountain Peaks
“Knock, knock, knock, mountains, mountains, mountains.” The guide for the large group yelled out and knocked on each door as she walked down the corridor of the guesthouse. Being the final day of their trek and having the same experience as I did on Poon Hill, they were all very excited at the prospect of seeing the mountains. The hallway was soon full of people throwing on warm clothes and making their way out the door.
Tadapani Morning View
Only the earliest signs of dawn filled the sky. As I made my way outside I was happy to join in the excitement of the group. The view was spectacular. Rhododendrons covered the near hills adjacent to the village and beyond them rose a row of majestic snow covered peaks.
Annapurna Range
Most prominent was Machapuchare or Fish Tail Mountain. The sky was tinged with purples and yellows. While the scenery was that of a beautiful painting it soon became clear that it was only a brief passing moment. It felt like the mountains were teasing me. As soon as the sun touched the peaks the clouds rolled in and while this moment passed quickly it stoked my excitement and I was energized for the day.
More Steps!Prayer Flags
This turned out to be a very long yet beautiful day. We quickly descended through the forest emerging on steep hills terraced with small villages, and entire mountainsides were lined with crops extending from the clouds to the river valley below. It took a good two hours to reach the bottom of the first hill. There a small suspension bridge to carry me across and the ascent to the top of the next hill began. It seemed reasonable to me that somewhere at the top of this hill we would stop as surely it would take hours to get there.
Long Trail DownCrossing Suspension Bridge
When we reached the top we stopped at a cliffside guesthouse for lunch. The air was cool and the wind blew through fiercely at times. Jacket on, jacket off. Full clouds again, jacket back on. The temperature fluctuations were quick and continuous.
Egg Curry for Lunch
After lunch we followed the trail around to Chhomrong. This was a good sized village placed on the top of a mountain. Near the top, a stone trail was lined with guesthouses, restaurants and coffee shops. The rock stairs going down this side of the hill seemed to go on forever.
Permit Check Point
Here we passed a government checkpoint. At this point you are signed in and carry on. If in several days you don’t check back out someone will have to come looking for you.
Chhomrong NepalChhomrongChhomrongStone House
The guesthouses and restaurants soon gave way to a traditional mountain village. Here buffalo and ox wondered the paths lined with stone walls. On each side beautiful gardens as far as I could see. As it was only the end of March healthy looking winter crops prospered. Cabbage and potatoes were lined with newly sprouted corn stalks. Clean cool water made its way through the village carefully directed with stone channels as needed. At the bottom of a long section of steps there was a beautiful Buddhist stupa. This made a great place to take a short break.
BuffaloSteep StairsPrayer WheelsStupaNepal Stone HouseChhomrong
Looking across the valley at the next hill my guide pointed to a place called Sinuwa. It was so far away! He then pointed to a small group of buildings on the far ridge above and said “that is Upper Sinuwa, we shall sleep there tonight.” I was astonished to be honest. We had already covered so much ground and we couldn’t be much more than half way through the day. Upper Sinuwa was so much higher than where we were standing and we were still going down. In the end we did thirty-thousand steps this day covering about thirteen miles. About half way up the hill I was longing for a steep trail, but the steps I faced instead, had my legs and lungs on fire. From this point forward the trek could only be taken one step at a time. The realization of the difficulty ahead was really setting in.
Looking back at ChhomrongNepal Stone House
As I arrived at Upper Sinuwa the day was mostly gone. After getting my bed ready for the night I made my way towards the dining hall. The clouds were clearing off to reveal my location. In the valley to the north, Fish Tail Mountain’s sharp vertical summit was peaking out from behind a ridge. It seemed hard to believe how much closer I was to this mountain from the last time I saw it this morning. It now stood directly above me and as it got dark the sky stayed clear. This was a very good sign for the weather tomorrow. Despite being exhausted from a very long day, I went to bed eager for tomorrow to start.
Machapuchare Peak
The Excitement of Blue Skies
The next morning the sky was indeed blue as I had hoped. As we hit the trail in a narrow canyon, huge cliffs rose to each side. It was cold. I could see the sun slowly making its way down the rock but it seemed like it would never reach me. I was cold but sweating profusely. Trekking cold in less layers seemed the only way to continue.
Machapuchare Peak
The trail was too steep and difficult to wear heavy clothes, as despite the cold temperatures I was very hot while trekking. The trees were getting smaller but the water was increasing. We crossed several streams on rocks or makeshift bridges. The streams fell quickly into a raging river below. I could hear waterfalls but I could not see them.
Mountain Stream
We passed though several small places. Dovan, Bamboo, and Himalaya, where we stopped for lunch. In the midday sun Himalaya was very hot. A perfect blue sky was above, but only the very tops of peaks could be seen due to the height of cliff walls that surrounded me.
Welcome to HimalayaWelcome to BambooWelcome to Deurali
After lunch I exited the forest as I climbed onto the tundra. Here the wind blew without obstruction or mercy. Cold air and a hot sun made the adding and subtracting of layers a constant process throughout the afternoon. Soon the clouds rolled in and hid the my surroundings just I crossed my first snow.
Stunning Views
Here in a small valley, the snow was guarded from the sun and was allowed to sit here year round. Below the sound of water, and just on the other side of the snow a wide waterfall spread out across the rocks just as we reach Duerali, my destination for the night.
First snow of trek
A light hail began falling from ominous clouds. A stiff wind was blowing the hail across the ground. The ice increased in size and frequency and soon there was about an inch accumulated on the ground. Just before the sunset the hail gave way to rain and the cold dark night set in. Tomorrow morning was the final ascent to Annapurna Base Camp.
Deurali
Looking down the valleyWaterfall near Deurali
Hail at Deurali
An Icy Trail to Annapurna Base Camp
As I awoke I was initially delighted by the weather as not a single cloud was to be found. It was however bitterly cold. As I started out from my guesthouse there was a stillness in the crisp air. The only sound was the crunching of ice beneath my feet. As I climbed a short staircase that led to the trail my feet were slipping. Everything was covered with a sheet of ice and I quickly stopped, took off my pack and dug out my crampons.
Icy MorningIce on Trail
I initially thought it would take me four hours to reach ABC from Duerali, but the ice was clearly going to make this a much longer day. Those who didn’t have crampons wrapped socks around their shoes for extra grip. Even with the crampons the hard ice was slick and only on the flattest of surfaces did I have confidence in my steps.
Avalanche Area
After a very short distance there was a sign warning that I was entering an avalanche area. The sign was a turning point where the trail had been redirected. Straight ahead a large pyramid of snow about one hundred and fifty feet high rested against the cliff. Here an avalanche, only last year, had come down and taken the lives of both trekkers and guides. This stuck sharply in my mind as I followed the new trail that led down to the raging river fed from glaciers near my destination.
At the river, a makeshift metal bridge crossed the swift current. While this was far from the ideal surface for my crampons to grip, I just didn’t have the energy to keep removing and putting them back on again.
Sketchy Bridge
Across the bridge the trail was difficult to follow due to a layer of snow and ice. Empty rice bags tied to trees mark the way up and over rocks. After about thirty minutes I approached the second bridge that led me back to the other side.
Cold Morning
The sun was threatening to shine on the trail ahead and make going a little bit less dangerous as the ice would quickly begin to melt. Soon I made my way onto softer snow and ahead in the distance I spotted Machapuchare Base Camp.
River Trail
As I approached the camp I could have stopped for an early lunch or tea, but I could see the very beginnings of cloud cover behind Machapuchare peak so I decided to forge on to ABC without resting. A welcomed flat surface gave me the opportunity to get out my camera that had been packed away due to the icy surface.
Trying to Stay Warm
I paused here for about five minutes while I took some photos of the dramatic peaks towering above me. I thought to myself, it would have been worth all this work just to come this far. Everything was bright white snow or dark stone. The peaks seemed as though someone had designed them and just got carried away with their work throwing mountains on top of each other. I though to myself, this is why I came here.
Taking it all in at MBCMountain CliffsA Porter Admiring the MountainsDramatic valley leading to ABC
From here I turned west toward the steep snow covered slope. Somehow I thought I would be able to see ABC from here, but that just turned out to be wishful thinking. The sun beat down from the blue sky and soon I was sweating again. Each step grew more tiresome and each hill turned out to be a false top. After about forty-five minutes I stopped and threw my bag down on a rock that poked its way up through the snow. I could finally see ABC, but now the destination didn’t seem that important.
Machapuchare Peak & MBC
I found myself completely surrounded by massive snow and glacier covered peaks, some with shear cliff faces that were thousands of feet high. After the previous days, I felt incredibly fortunate to have a sky so clear and bright. I spent the next hour slowly walking towards ABC while making sure not to miss an opportunity to look up and take it all in.
Machapuchare from near ABC
Surrounded by PeaksSnow Hike to ABCLast Push to the Top
Just below the guesthouses I paused and had my photo taken at the famous Namaste, Welcome to Annapurna Base Camp sign. From here, I turned away and walked toward a massive gulch created by glaciers.
Glacier Valley and Annapurna
Ahead of me stood the Annapurna range. I was breathless from the climb and from the scenery. For so many years I had dreamed of reaching this exact spot. Sometimes we build things up in our heads for so long that there can be a let down when the moment comes. This was not the case at Annapurna Base Camp. Everything was bigger and more dramatic than I could have ever dreamed. I was caught up in the moment and thought to myself, this must be among the most beautiful places on earth.
I was extremely hungry and exhausted. After dropping my bag I made my way to the small dining hall which was lined with windows giving stunning views of the giant bowl of peaks that surrounded. As I sat and drank a cup of tea I was not hungry, or thirsty or exhausted anymore. I quickly ate my lunch and proceeded outside to see what I could and imprint images of the surroundings in my mind before the fast approaching clouds took it all away.
Clouds Rolling In
It’s a quite remarkable thing to be standing at over 13,000 feet above sea level surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the world and realize those peaks rise over 11,000 feet above where you are standing.
Snow at Base Camp
As I laid down that evening, I knew I would sleep like a baby. I felt satisfied with my efforts and the rewards that came with it. Tomorrow was to be the longest day as far as time and distance, but for now I was only thinking about the beauty of this place as I fell asleep.
A Long and Tiring Descent
The next morning was fast going. Descending on a gentle slope past Machapuchare Base Camp my crampons strongly gripped the softer ice. The air was considerably warmer and I walked with a sense of accomplishment and confidence. The skies were blue and I was happy.
Sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp
As I made my way along the bottom of a steep cliff face I heard what I thought was clap of thunder. As I looked up I saw only blue sky and then I came to a quick realization. Beware of the sound of thunder under blue skies.
As I looked up to my right a burst of snow shot out from the cliff. It was probably two thousand feet above me. I pointed my walking pole up at the falling snow and yelled out “avalanche,” as I began to run. Within a few seconds I was running at full speed with crampons on across ice and rocks. After about a minute, with my heart racing I looked back and then stopped. I knew I would have been out of the danger zone by now. A light dusting of snow fell gently on the trees along the river side. This was a very small avalanche as this time of year the snow pack in not heavy. I was still quite concerned about falling rocks the snow might have taken to the valley floor with it.
Small Avalanche
I slowly carried on again crossing the makeshift bridges and back into the forest of large trees and bamboo. In all I walked for nine hours covering about eighteen miles on my way to down to Lower Sinuwa where I spent the night. My legs were destroyed and shaking but my knees did not hurt and I remember thinking “I feel as I should feel after this trek, no better and no worse.” Tomorrow would be an easy day. There were only a few more miles to cover and then a long suspension bridge to the jeep trail from where I would head back to Pokhara. There I would be able to reflect on my trip. On the trail there was little down time. I walked, I ate, I slept and focussed on the task. I was looking forward to a time a reflection.
One Final Long BridgeYield to Mules
Suspension Bridge
Girls on bridgeA very steep bridge to crossPartners in climb
The End of a Long & Beautiful Journey
I don’t believe you can overestimate how you can mentally put up a wall and forge through physically challenging moments. But once you know you’ve physically succeeded that mental wall falls quickly and you soon realize it was the only thing keeping you going. If you are healthy I would say that a trek like this is 25% physical and 75% mental. Once my mental guard was down exhaustion set in. I guess I had been mentally preparing myself for this more than I had realized and suddenly my body was weak and my mind was dull. At first I thought this was just a let down after all the excitement of the past week. In reality, I was now feeling both mentally and physically ill for lack of a better word.
Stupa
Back in Pokhara I began to sort through photos of the past eight days and only then did I find that sense of accomplishment I had hoped for. That evening I poured myself a big shot of whiskey and looked over my paper map of the Annapurna Mountains. I felt freed from a challenge I had dreamed of and had put off for over three decades and while this certainly would have been easier in my twenties, I had no doubt that it meant so much more now.
Our Pokhara Nepal Video (What To Do After Your Trek)
We traveled by car from Delhi to Rishikesh. It’s only around 200 kilometers, or 125 miles, but it took about four hours. It takes over an hour just to get out of Delhi. As always, the ride itself is so interesting. The things you can see along the road! I observed many families and people on a pilgrimage to Rishikesh. We saw them in caravans of cars, or in wagons going down the side of the road, and some just walking, all displaying the triangle orange flag and heavily decorated with flowers. I am used to seeing many people on a motorbike, sometimes up to a family of five, but I had never seen one fall off until now.
Ganga River Rishikesh
Our car was speeding down the highway and a motorbike with a family of five passed us, then they hit a bump. A boy that looked to be around 9 or 10 fell off the back of the bike and bounced on his bottom on the highway. He immediately jumped up and ran across our lane in front of us to the median. Our driver slammed on the brakes. By this time the man driving the motorbike had pulled over and a woman had run across to the median. The boy was standing as she wrapped her arms around him, he wasn’t crying but he looked pretty shaken up. This was so scary to me, I can’t imagine how scared he must have been.
RishikeshGanga River
Rishikesh is not only a holy city where many people make a pilgrimage to, it’s also the international home of yoga, and one of the first things you notice is how many yoga schools there are here. Many people come here not only to earn their yoga teacher certification, but also to study Ayurvedic medicine, Reiki, Meditation, Sound Therapy, and Chakras. You will see Yogis, Sadhus, Hindu Priests, Gurus, Swamis, Buddhist Monks and Nuns, and a wide variety of people that live on the fringe walking the streets here. We spent our first two weeks in Rishikesh at The Hotel Moksham in the Tapovan neighborhood, which is located at the top of a steep hill. Which you get used to after a few days. Rishikesh is so much more laid back than Delhi, it was a relief to be here. Our hotel was great, the staff was wonderful and they also had a really good restaurant. Unfortunately, the same cold spell that was hitting Delhi was also hitting this area and our hotel was cold! Heaters are not installed in hotel rooms here as they are normally not needed. They gave us extra blankets for our bed and we called it good, but we remained cold our entire stay here, except for the very last day when a warm front came through. The owner of the hotel gave us some really good advice. He said “Don’t make a plan, just see where Rishikesh takes you and go with it.” That is exactly what we did.
Ganga RiverBeatles Ashram
Cows are considered Holy in India and they go pretty much anywhere they want to. There were cows wandering around the crowded streets of Delhi, but not overly many. This was made up for in Rishikesh. There were so many cows here. They definitely make traffic slow down. I actually loved seeing the cows. They are very well cared for here, as they are considered Holy and this is a Holy city. Food waste is separated from other garbage at every home and business. Buckets and troughs of food are put out for the cows, along with water. Cows also know where fresh grasses are left out for them and what vegetable and fruit stands they can get a hand out from. For the most part they are pretty sweet and used to being petted. I loved petting them anyway. Aaron had a run in with one of the biggest Brahma bulls either one of us has ever seen. We had seen this big boy on our street before, and had even commented on his size. Then one night as we were walking back from dinner, we ran right into him. There was a lot of traffic and noise that particular evening and as we were walking by him, he lunged at Aaron, horns down. This not only scared the crap out of us, but all the people around us moved well out of the way very quickly. We kept a wide berth around the bulls after that.
Holy Cow Rishikesh
One of the first things we did after arriving was to hike down and see the Ganges River, the mother of rivers here in India. It is considered a holy river, and Rishikesh is considered a holy city. I have seen videos of the Ganges at the holy city of Varanasi (where many cremations take place) and the water looked like brown gray soup, but people on holy pilgrimages bathe in it. The river is much different here, I was so happy to be met with beautiful turquoise green water at the Ganges here in Rishikesh. This is actually the first city the river flows through as it makes its way down from the Himalayas. It’s clean, clear, and beautiful. As we walked along the very wide banks of the river, we saw many men stripping down to their underwear and dipping themselves in the holy waters. Ladies either take some water home in a container, get in fully clothed, or they do have bathing areas for women at some of the temples. The ladies here stay covered up, the men and boys don’t care. After walking some distance along the river banks we came upon a nice, small Shiva statue set among the river rocks. By the looks of it, many people leave offerings of flowers here. You will find many garlands of bright orange marigolds and smell incense burning all along the river, near temples, and entryways to buildings all over town. I think it really adds and exotic feel to the atmosphere. After being here a few days I can say that I really like the vibe of this place. Rishikesh itself is a VIBE, and you can quickly fall into a groove here.
Nim BeachGanga RiverGanga River Rishikesh
The river splits the city into two sections. One morning we were going to cross one of the iconic suspension bridges here to the other side of Rishikesh and check it out. We found the old Laxman Jhula bridge shut down and a new one under construction. After 94 years of service it was found to have structural damage. Originally built in 1889 by Rai Bahadur, the bridge had to be rebuilt in 1924 due to severe flooding. When the wealthy Rai Bahadur had the bridge built, he had a stipulation written into law that stated the bridge, and any replacement of it would never be able to charge a toll. It was to remain free for all people to use, and it remains that way today.
Laxman Jhula Crossing
Since this bridge that connected two parts of the city is closed, we decided to take the ferry boat across. There is another suspension bridge, but it is quite a ways from here. For .55 cents we took the motorboat, but had to wait for 45 minutes for it to completely fill up. That was fine, chillin’ by the riverside on a nice morning fit right into my schedule. It was one of those things you just have to go with. I found this section of Rishikesh across the river to be smaller. As far as we walked, it was made up mostly of ashrams, temples, hotels, souvenir shops, and some restaurants. While walking down the main street we decided to stop at a lemon soda cart. These vendors have very unique shaped glass bottles into which they add fresh squeezed lemon, sugar, and carbonated water. They put a marble into the bottom of the bottle and as the carbonation builds up, it pushes the marble to the top of the bottle and seals it for safe keeping. It was interesting to see how he opened the bottle and the lemon soda was really good. It’s a treat you stop for more than once! After checking all of the area out we had a good lunch at a restaurant called “Harry”. When it was time to return back across the river, we thought we’d do a river tour, having seen these small speed boats going up and down the river. But, the guy at the ticket booth either couldn’t understand what we wanted or just didn’t want to sell us the tickets. A young couple standing behind us, that spoke excellent English, asked us to ride in a private boat with them, so at least we didn’t have to wait for the ferry boat to fill up again. They were very kind and we had a nice conversation.
Laxman Jhula
After wandering the narrow streets and alleyways of RIshikesh for a couple of weeks, we rented a cabin in the mountains called Chamba Nest, about an hour out of town. Here we celebrated Aaron’s birthday and our 20th wedding anniversary.
Chamba Nest View
It was in a beautiful location and came with a caretaker and a cook. It was still cold, but they provided an electric heater for our little cabin. We were able to get out and do some hiking and we had great food that we could order from a menu. The cook, Rajendra, was amazing! I had not told the host about Aaron’s birthday, but I guess they noticed it while taking copies of our passports. At dinner time on his birthday, we went into the dining room and they had a table all decorated and a birthday cake, with candles, for him. We were both so shocked! It was so wonderful of them to do that, unasked! We really appreciated it. I had told the host about our anniversary and had asked for a cake to be provided.
Chamba NestChamba Nest
A few days later on the big day, we went down for dinner and they had the dining room dimly lit and all decorated with candles and beautiful lamps. The caretaker, Vinod, had made a hand printed “Happy Anniversary” poster and hung it on the wall. There was a fancy cake and many little tea lites scattered around the table. They made it very romantic! Of course we shared the cakes with them. Their little bit of English was much better than our zero knowledge of Hindi, but we seemed to understand each other perfectly. They made our stay here very special.
Upon returning to Rishikesh we settled into a nice Airbnb apartment called Yogvan Holiday Apartments. We loved everything about it, except again, it was located at the top of a steep hill. After 4 or 5 days this hill got easier, so I guess it helped me with some cardio. Being on the 4th floor, I was glad it had an elevator. It seems like so many places that we stay, we have to climb multiple floors of stairs, or walk up a big hill. I know it’s good for me, I think I must be getting lazy. We were close to a great Yoga studio that I set out to at 6:45 am, every other morning. Through a construction zone, across a cow pasture, up a hill, and there I was! My guru’s name was really long so he told me just to call him Viki. Two hours of yoga and meditation in his class really set me up to have a good day. Best of all, the classes were only $3.00 each for a two hour session.
Getting an early start one morning, we decided to hike down to the Ram Jhula Suspension Bridge. Built in 1986, the Ram Jhula iron suspension bridge is an iconic landmark here in Rishikesh. Similar to the Laxman Jhula bridge being rebuilt downstream, the Ram Jhula is much larger and longer. There is a lot more going on down by this bridge as compared to the Laxman Jhula.
Ram Jhula
We wanted to visit one of the most iconic temples and ashrams in Rishikesh called the Parmarth Niketan. Built in 1942 this ashram has 1,000 rooms that they provide for people, from all over the world, coming here either on a pilgrimage, to do yoga or earn their yoga teaching certification, meditation, reiki, acupressure, to learn Ayurvedic medicine practices, or receive ayurvedic treatments. They offer a safe, clean, spiritual atmosphere along with low priced rooms and meals. I was impressed, the buildings were simple but nice, the complex had nice gardens and large grassy areas. The temple itself is across from the ashram and has a 14 foot Shiva statue sitting in meditation over the river, as the highlight. It also had a large and impressive Hanuman statue, and a very intricate marble carving of Krishna in his chariot. After strolling through the complex, we headed back towards the bridge and decided to stop for some lunch.
ShivaShivaParmarth NiketanParmarth Niketan
We had read about a legendary place we wanted to try called Chotiwala. A Chotiwala is a Brahmin cook to wealthy or royal households. The Chotiwala mascot for the restaurant is depicted with a very large, bald man, dressed in a costume and with a painted face. He sits on a throne in front of the restaurant and you can take a selfie with him if you want, but he doesn’t talk or smile. We ordered the traditional Indian Thali set here and it was pretty good. Some street children ran into the restaurant and came to our table wanting food before they were ran out by the manager. Aaron saved some chapati bread to take out to them, but of course they were no where to be found when we left. We were out by the riverside and Aaron was taking some pictures when a pretty big, black faced Languor monkey crept up behind him and slowly pulled his bag of chapati out of his camera bag. Aaron felt it at the last second, but to late, the monkey had sat down and torn the bag open and was eating the chapati breads. Very cute, but very sneaky too!
Chotiwala Thali SetChotiwala
Another morning we set out and did a major hike over to the Chaurasi Kutia Ashram, better known as The Beatles Ashram. I didn’t really know what to expect, I knew it had been abandoned for a really long time, but you still have to pay to get in and look around. I certainly was not expecting it to be such a massive complex.
Beatles Ashram
During the 1960s and 70s, this was the International Academy of Meditation, a training center for the students of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. A former physicist, Maharishi Mahesh is also the person that developed the Transcendental Meditation technique. Not associated with any religion, this meditation technique teaches you how to clear your mind and focus on whatever you need to focus on in your life. It must have worked for The Beatles because they wrote most of the songs for their White Album while they were here. This was their most productive period as songwriters. They met the Maharishi after attending a lecture he gave in London, and he invited them to the Ashram, where they spent 3 months.
Beatles AshramBeatles AshramBeatles Ashram
Spread out on over 18.5 acres, the meditation complex contains 127 individual rooms with private bathrooms. These are very cool looking, each being built from river rock, round in shape, with the bedroom and bath on the lower level, and stairs leading to an upper level where there is a small egg shaped meditation dome, and an outdoor terrace if you wanted to meditate or just sit outside. There was also the Chaurasi Kutia itself, which is a building with 84 individual meditation caves.
Chaurasi Kutia literally means 84 domiciles or 84 caves. This is what the ashram is named after. In addition to these constructions, there are also 3 huge, three level dorm room style buildings, classrooms, libraries, kitchens, dining halls, lecture hall, study halls, laundry, vegetable and herb gardens, and even small houses for families. The Beatles stayed in a large house at the back of the property. You can roam the complex at your leisure and take in all the interesting artwork that has been done over the years, in various rooms throughout the complex. Some walls are painted with the lyrics of Beatle’s songs as well. It was a very interesting place and had the most chill vibe. We wandered around for several hours and just took it all in. There are beautifully decorated, egg shaped chambers on top of each dorm building, where you also get an amazing view of the Ganges River below and the stunning forest covered mountains behind.
Beatles Ashram
We had read online that it would cost 600 rupees, or $7.25 to enter. When we arrived, the sign at the ticket booth said 1,200 rupees, or $14.50, double the price we were expecting. We were a little shocked and kind of miffed. The ticket booth agent told us that the increase had just taken place because the ashram complex is now managed by the forest department and considered part of the Rajaji Tiger Reserve. The ashram complex remains heavily fenced off from the surrounding area so you even if there were a tiger in the area, it couldn’t get into the ashram complex area. There are plans to restore parts of this heritage site and turn it into a wellness and meditation area. Currently, there is a small snack bar to get drinks and snacks inside, along with restrooms. Even though it ended up costing more to enter, it was still inexpensive. It was a really great place to visit and is definitely the best modern, abandoned complex I have ever visited.
Beatles Ashram
When we first arrived in Rishikesh it was still quite chilly, or just down right cold. One sunny morning we decided to walk to Nim Beach on the Ganges River. The river beaches are very big in areas and quite popular to visit. The far end of Nim Beach is covered with large boulders and backed by forest covered hills. Also a great place to watch the cute black faced Langur monkeys. We were sitting on a boulder, soaking up the warm sun and watching the river rafters going by. It looked like great fun, but I knew that water was like ice coming straight out of the Himalayas. I stated to Aaron, “You’re not getting me in there, it’s to cold!” But after being here a few weeks the weather started to warm up drastically, and the rafting looked like such fun.
Rafting the Ganges
So we finally decided that we were going to do it. We were going to raft the Ganges! We have rafted in several countries with the most epic, and terrifying, being the Zambezi. At least here we wouldn’t have to worry about crocodiles if we got tossed out of the boat. Our Airbnb hosts made it super easy by arranging it for us. We were picked up at our door at 10:00 am, and brought back after we were done. Talk about service! Our first stop was at the rafting center, we had to fill out a form, and we were asked if we wanted to rent wet suits. It was so warm out that we declined. Then we were back in the truck and off to the river.
Rafting the Ganges
You can do river trips of various lengths and I had chosen the mid-range trip of 16 kilometers. As we were walking up to the rivers edge and our guide and driver were carrying the raft down, we plainly saw that we were putting in right below a class 5 rapid. I was actually very glad that we missed that one! We got our life jackets, and helmets on, were handed our paddles, and off we went. It was just Aaron and I and our river guide. It was great fun! There were a few rapids that made me hold my breath or squeal, but it was mostly just a fun ride down the river. Our guide tried to get us to hold onto a rope and jump in and float beside the raft. Not without a wetsuit, probably not even then for me! The river was flowing so fast that our raft trip was over before we knew it. It truly was a beautiful river trip, the water of Ganges here is so clean, clear, and beautiful.
Rafting the Ganges
The river valley is lined with steep rock faces, boulders, and forested hillsides. All to soon we were pulling in to Nim Beach and being loaded back into the truck and driven home. It was a terrific half day adventure, and all for only $8.00 per person! Back at our Airbnb we were looking at videos other rafters had posted to the raft companies website. There were two videos of 6 and 7 foot long King Cobras swimming beside some rafts. They are a snake that fishes. Then there was another one of a python swimming by a raft and he looked at least 10 feet long. These videos were taken right here in Rishikesh. I am so glad I did not see these videos before I went rafting! Snakes aside, I am really glad we went, it was a lot of fun. Now I can say that I have rafted the Zambezi and the Ganges! Will I get to add rafting the Nile to the list? We shall see.
Rafting the Ganges
Being considered a holy city, Rishikesh is also an alcohol and meat free city. Both places we stayed in Rishikesh did not allow any meat or alcohol to be brought onto the premises. On Google Maps we found two beer and wine shops outside the city limits, and a place that serves chicken. So we were vegetarians for the two months we were here. I have to say that it was not a big deal, the food in India is so delicious and they know how to make a proper vegetarian meal.
Aloo PuriThali Set
I discovered Lemon Chaap, Tandoori Momos, the most fragrant Biryani, and so much more. It really puts the vegetarian food we’ve had in all other countries to shame. We never felt like we were missing anything either.
BiryaniTandoori Momos
We had a lot of wonderful seafood in Goa, and outside of that we actually didn’t eat much meat anywhere in India because the vegetarian food is so delicious. We never got the dreaded “Delhi Belly” either. I hope I am able to recreate some of these dishes myself later on down the road.
Check Out Our Guide To Rishikesh India Video
The Taj Mahal – A True Life Love Story and one of the most beautiful buildings in the world.
Even though we have been traveling for well over two years now, I still find myself in unbelievable situations about to do something that I had previously only dreamed of. This trip to Borneo was definitely one of those situations. I have always had a love and fascination for the great apes. Growing up, and even as an adult, I read every library book I could get my hands on and watched numerous documentaries to learn more about the great apes. Jane Goodall is my hero! I was fortunate enough to get to do a Mountain Gorilla trek in Uganda a few years ago, which remains one of the most amazing wildlife experiences I have ever had. Now, here I was in Borneo about to go into the rainforest jungle in search of wild Orangutans.
Even though I had been in Borneo over ten days, I still couldn’t believe that I was actually being presented with the opportunity to see Orangutans in the wild. I don’t have the words to describe my excitement as I found myself on the Kinabatangan River in the tropical rainforest of Borneo on a wildlife adventure. The two cities we had visited first, Kota Kinabalu and Sandakan, quickly faded from my mind as we boarded the boat to head upriver where we would stay at a jungle lodge. Accessible only by boat, the Sukau Rainforest Lodge is for people that want to go into the jungle and see the wildlife of Borneo.
Palm Sugar Plantations
Before setting off for the lodge, our first stop was at the Pusat Pemuliharaan Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary. This 10,000 acre sanctuary opened in 1964 as the logging and palm oil industries were causing drastic decreases in Orangutan and other animal populations then, over sixty years ago. There are three Orang Utan sanctuaries in Borneo all focusing on the preservation of the type of Orang Utan found in Borneo, the Pongo Pygmaeus, which there are less than 30,000 left. There is also the Sumatran Orang Utan found in Sumatra, with only 13,000 left. And the Tapanuli Orang Utan found only in the Tapanuli district of Sumatra with only 800 left.
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center
Orangutan is actually two Malay words. Orang meaning person, and Utan meaning forest. So Orangutan literally means person of the forest. In the wild, Orangutans are naturally solitary creatures, only coming together to mate or establish territory. They also would rarely, if ever, come down to the ground. But now, through loss of habitat, or having to be raised in a sanctuary with many others, their natural patterns are changing. Where a solitary mother would raise and teach her baby for around seven or eight years, and if she was lucky, still only have two or three babies in her lifetime. Now orphaned babies are raised together and stay together in the forest after leaving the sanctuary.
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center
We did not get to see the babies in the nursery as they are very susceptible to human disease. We were able to see the adolescents playing and learning how to do things for themselves. We also got to observe one of the two daily feeding times. During these periods, Macaque monkeys come in from the jungle to try and get in on the action, and also some Orangutans that have been returned to the wild. They are allowed to wander in and get a meal if needed. We were told that these animals are fed the exact same thing every day to try to encourage them to go into the forest and look for a larger variety of food on their own. On this particular morning, a young mother Orangutan with a tiny baby, came in to supplement her diet. Then, much to everyone’s surprise, a big 21 year old male came in.
Male Orangutan
He had been raised at the sanctuary but had been returned to the wild many years ago. They said he shows up every now and again to get his fill of bananas and green beans. He was so interesting and handsome with his big facial flanges, I could have watched him all day. He was so big! But he could definitely swing his big body through the trees at top speed with those long muscular arms.
After touring the sanctuary, it was time to set off for the Sukau Rainforest Lodge. Like a kid on Christmas morning, I was almost dizzy with anticipation as I boarded the boat to head up the Kinabatangan River. Even after all the exciting travels I have experienced, I still could not quite believe that I was heading into the rainforest to look for wild Orangutans!
Kinabatangan River Kinabatangan River
We arrived at the lodge after going about an hour and a half upriver. The boat ride was awesome. I saw a couple of tiny villages right after we started up the river, but soon there were no other villages and very few other boats. There were two other lodges before we reached Sukau. The lodge was more upscale than I was expecting. Built in a beautiful log cabin design, the lodge had great food and two swimming pools. Still, it is not a resort style vacation destination or for the feint of heart. It is for wildlife viewing expeditions that keep you on a pretty strict schedule. There was also a National Geographic birding expedition staying there. The bird life there is tremendous and just added to the experience.
After arriving at the lodge and putting our things in our room, we set off on a four hour river expedition. There were only six of us the boat plus our guide, Farhan. We had the same guide from our pick-up point all the way through to our drop off point at the end. He was great. He could spot things in the jungle that amazed us. Talk about eagle eyes, this young man has them! He didn’t just stick to the main river either.
He took our boat down tributaries and small waterways overgrown with jungle. The scenery was like something out of a movie. The green river, the thick rainforest jungle, the heavy smell of greenery and blooming flowers, and especially all the sounds. The noise of the insects, the calls of many different birds, the chattering of monkeys, and an occasional splash as something big churns in the water, all the sounds of adventure! It was magical.
Kinabatangan RiverKinabatangan RiverKinabatangan River
We were at the lodge for three nights. Every day started off with a three hour river expedition at 6:00 am. We would have another one that started at 2:00 pm and lasted until sunset. We were free to do whatever we wanted between 11:00 am and 2:00 pm.
Sunset on River
There were also night time expeditions that took place from 8:00 to 10:30 pm. We did one the first night and spotted a lot of wildlife! But it seemed so rude, all these poor creatures being woken up by a glaring spotlight. We turned off down a small river tributary and that’s where we encountered the jumping snake. He jumps from bush to bush, luckily he didn’t jump from his bush into our boat. Then some type of fierce Hornet started buzzing around the boat driver and he was afraid of them. He said they were attracted to his light, so he turned it off. When the spotlight went off, it was pitch black. I couldn’t see my hand in front of my face, or any of the other people in the boat.
KingfisherSnake
The overhanging trees blocked any light from the moon and stars. But the driver just kept the light off and started the boat back up. I have to say I was more than a little apprehensive. How did he know where he was going? The river has random rocks sticking up and floating logs and things that are easy to see in the daylight, including large crocodiles. He would occasionally turn the light back on just long enough to check out the water, then snap it back off. I like a good adventure, but did not want to find myself floating in a pitch black jungle river waiting to be rescued. I’ve been on several night safaris in Africa, but doing one on the river added a whole different element of excitement!
River Cruise
I saw so much wildlife on our daily expeditions. Found only in Borneo the Proboscis Monkeys were wild to look at. The males are much bigger than the females and have the big droopy nose that covers much of their lower face, and big pot bellies. The females had long pointy noses. There are several species of monkeys that swim, but the Proboscis is adapted for swimming. Living along the riverbanks, they have webbed hands and feet that allow them to out swim Crocodiles, which is their main threat, after man.
Even though we saw quite a few troops of them, in actuality there are only a few thousand left. I also saw the pretty Silver Leaf Monkey, or Silver Langur along with the Maroon Langur, both found only in Borneo. They have sweet little faces and their coloring ranges from a light orange to a deep maroon, so pretty. They almost look like a stuffed animal. There were two types of Macaques, the long tail and the short tail. Squirrels of all sizes, and a particularly pretty jet black squirrel.
Kinabatangan River
The bird life here is amazing. I was first introduced to the Hornbill in Africa and found them amazing and delightful. They have eight types of Giant Hornbills here, and I got to see all of them but one. The most majestic is the Rhinoceros Hornbill. These giant birds are found only in parts of Southeast Asia. In addition to being huge and beautiful, they have a large colorful horn, called a casque, on top of their big bills. They are very intelligent, mate for life, and live up to 35 years. They live in hollow trees where the male will seal the female up while she incubates and hatches their eggs. Once the chicks start getting feathers, the male and female work to chip away the dried mud that held them in. The male feeds her and the chicks through a small opening the entire time, so they definitely have a relationship built on trust. If something happens to the male during this time, the female and chicks will die. Because of loss of habitat, they are on the threatened list. Since they only have one or two chicks every few years, this makes it even harder for them to maintain their numbers.
I also saw the Oriental Pied Hornbill, the Asian Black Hornbill, the Bushy Crested Hornbill, the Wrinkled Hornbill, the White Crowned Hornbill, and the Wreathed Hornbill. All are spectacular to look at. The one I didn’t get to see was the Helmeted Hornbill. Their numbers have plummeted to the brink of extinction. All of these animals were amazing to see, and I feel so lucky that I got to see them. But the one I specifically came here to see had yet to turn up, a wild Orangutan.
Sukau Rainforest Lodge
During our free time on the second full day at Sukau, we decided to go exploring the jungle paths that lead out from behind the lodge. There are several long wooden walkways that extend out into the rainforest. If you want to go exploring off the walkway, you need to be prepared with long pants, boots, and gaiters to keep the leeches off. We decided to stick to the wooden walkway. Not having much hope of seeing any big animals in the heat of the day, we had settled in to watching all the tiny life going on around our feet. The jungle insects are also amazing!
Macaques Macaques
Then, a troop of long-tailed Macaques started to move in. Our guide had told us that often times a troop of Macaques travel nearby Orangutans. He also told us that if we were not in a big group, we should not hang around long when the Macaques moved in. They can be very aggressive and are known as “The Jungle Mafia”. But we weren’t very hopeful about seeing an Orangutan because we had seen quite a few Macaques coming and going close to the lodge since our arrival. A small male Macaque moved in, and then some mothers with tiny babies, and some playful adolescents. We were watching them play and eat fruit when we heard a big branch break.
Wild Orangutan
We started looking up into the tall trees and I found my heart beating faster and I was holding my breath. Then there they were, three Orangutans! We could only catch glimpses of their red orange hair at first. Then two of them settled in one high up spot and the third, an adolescent was having his playtime. We watched him swinging from tree to tree, back and forth, barely stopping long enough for us to get a good look.
Wild Orangutan Wild Orangutan
Then he grabbed a vine and started swinging on it. He grabbed it with his feet, let go with his hands, and slid down to about 20 feet above the ground. He really put on a show with his play and he was only about 30 feet away from us. Then he came down to where he was only 10 feet off the ground. He hung upside down, and performed all kinds of antics. He was watching us watch him, and he did not seem bothered by us. We were told that if we came close to an Orangutan, to just act normal, and don’t start whispering as they would take the change in your voice as a threat and move away.
We were able to observe him for a good half hour. Then Aaron said we need to move out. I turned around and we were being surrounded by the Macaques. There were now several large males and they were showing their long canine teeth and hissing. The younger ones started mock charging us. I know Macaque monkeys may not sound scary, but when there are about 60 of them surrounding you and closing in, it does feel threatening as their teeth are much longer and sharper than a dogs.
I hated to stop watching the Orangutans, but I also know how lucky I was to get to spend this much time so close to a wild one. So I counted this as a wonderful blessing and we slowly backed down the walkway. Needless to say this was the highlight of the Borneo jungle adventure for me!
On our last afternoon expedition, Farhan told us that some of the rare Pygmy Elephants had been spotted earlier, but they were pretty far up the river and if we wanted to see them we would have to go at top speed to see if we could spot them. There are only 300 of these small elephants left in the wild so we said “Yes, let’s go”. It was an amazing boat ride and Farhan went down many tributaries near where the elephants had been sighted, but we did not find them. We had gone so far up the river that it was well after dark by the time we made it back to the lodge. Even though we did not find the elephants, it was still amazing as we did spot so many birds coming in to roost and bats going out. Not to mention all the other wildlife settling in for the evening. To make it even better, it was only Aaron and I in the boat with Farhan. The others in our group had not stayed as many nights as us so we had the boat and guide all to ourselves.
Rainforest Discovery CenterRainforest Discovery Center
The next morning we boarded a larger boat to head back to Sandakan. The Captain took us back down the river to the ocean, and we headed towards Sandakan. We had one last stop at the Sepilok Rainforest Discovery Center. Originally built as a research center for scientists to observe the rainforest canopy, this series of towers with suspension bridges give you a breathtaking view of the jungle forest. We saw a lot of species of monkeys and birds here, and where Orangutans had built some nests for sleeping. In addition to tourists coming, it is also used to educate school children on how wonderful and fragile the biodiversity of their country is, and how to take care of it so it doesn’t disappear.
Rainforest Discovery CenterRainforest Discovery Center
Our Borneo adventure turned out to be way more than I ever dreamed it would be. I still am in awe of the wonderful adventure I had every time I think about it. I feel so lucky and blessed to have seen so much wildlife. But the icing on the cake was seeing wild Orangutans! It’s an experience I will never forget. Now I have seen wild Mountain Gorillas and wild Orangutans. Next on the list is wild Chimpanzees, wild Bonobos, and wild Lowland Gorillas.
Check Out Our Wild Orangutan Adventure Video
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