Greek Islands

Returning to Rhodes Old City from Lindos, we took the Blue Star Ferry to the island of Karpathos, which took about four hours. This island offered a completely different experience and feel from the island of Rhodes. We got off the ferry in the main town of Pigadia, the capital of Karpathos Island.

As I stepped off the ferry, I was greeted by the site of a lovely little classic Greek town nestled around the striking turquoise harbor. This small town is home to approximately 2,700 people. The entire islands population is around 7,000 but this number can swell by the thousands during the high season months.

Most people here are year round residents. Others come specifically to run a business during the tourist season and return to the mainland when the tourist season is over. The island pretty much shuts down to tourists come October.

After the hustle and bustle of Rhodes and Lindos, the fewer number of tourists and laid back atmosphere we were greeted with was a welcome surprise. There are no cruise ships, or day trippers coming into this small harbor.

After collecting our bags, it was an easy walk to the boutique hotel we had booked. The Odyssey Hotel had very nice and very large rooms, a rooftop terrace, and a delicious, free breakfast. We had an excellent view of the harbor, the town, and the surrounding mountains as we sat on the terrace and sipped our morning coffee.

One of the first things we did was scout out the restaurants in walking distance to our hotel. We had found some delicious and affordable food on Rhodes and was hoping it would be the same here. If anything, the prices were a little cheaper, and the food was amazing. Don’t get me wrong, there are some high priced tourist restaurants here, but if you look around you can definitely find more affordable options serving authentic and delectable cuisine along with locally made olive oils and wines.

Next, we walked up the hill to visit two chapels. The first was a beautiful little chapel that overlooks the harbor and is also home to the cemetery. I was shocked at how stunning this place was when I entered. Inside, the walls and ceiling were painted with the most beautiful frescos. The second chapel was just over the next little hill. It too was lovely, but you could tell this is where people gather for weekly services.

There are a few ancient ruins sites here, but not on the level of Rhodes. The few that are here are mostly in the town of Pigadia, can easily be walked to, and are free. Right at the edge of town stand the ruins of an ancient church. The paleo Christian Basilica of Agia Fotini which dates back to the year 400. There is not a lot left, but what is here is very interesting. The site includes some marble columns, frame and foundation of the church, plus some Christian symbols. A great place for photos.

Some notable ruins of the ancient city of Potideon can also be seen here. This small ruin is actually quite popular as it is easy to find, sitting behind a fence at the side of the road. There are a few other small sites that sounded interesting but we had done our share of walking on Rhodes and came to this island to relax and enjoy a more laid back atmosphere and its beaches. We rented a car for a few days and drove all around the island.

I was not prepared for how stunning our drives would be. The East side of the island has high mountain roads lined with pine trees and dramatic cliffs that overlook the Aegean Sea. The West side of the island is drier with a more arid type landscape, including olive and fruit groves, but I found it equally as stunning.

There are 19 beaches on the island, most relatively small. We didn’t get to visit them all, but we definitely made the effort. Some are sand and some are pebble beaches. There is a nice little beach right on the edge of town, within walking distance. But, our first stop for a swim, was the most popular beach on the island, Apella Beach.

We arrived early, so parking and getting beach chairs and an umbrella was easy. We spent several wonderful hours here swimming in the beautiful turquoise waters and soaking up the sun. Early birds that we are, it seemed that we were leaving when the majority of people were just arriving. Driving back to Pigadia, we took advantage of all the scenic overlook spots and pulled over to take pictures of the beautiful, and dramatic scenery. Mountains and the sea combine for some epic scenery.

The next day was cloudy and windy, with some light rain. Not ideal for our next destination, but we forged on and it was a great day. We headed up into the mountains to the village of Olymbos. Not to be confused with Mt. Olympos, where the Greek Gods rule, the tiny village of Olymbos, with a “b”, is one of the most famous villages in not only Karpathos, but in all of Greece.

Described as a living folklore museum, this picturesque village offers interesting history, ancient traditions, and panoramic views to its visitors. The people here consider themselves descendants of the Byzantine Empire and colorful Byzantine customs are very strong here. Their Easter celebration here has actually been registered in the UNESCO Archive of Worldwide Cultural Heritage.

For centuries Olymbos was isolated from the southern part of the island and only in the last few years has the winding road leading here been paved. Built on a mountainside, Olymbos is filled with stairs and narrow alleyways. This means we had to leave the car at the free parking lot at the bottom of the village and hike up!

But I have to say this place looks magical as soon as you approach it. A picturesque village tucked into the mountain sides. Back in the 7th century AD, the small village of Olymbos was originally situated next to the sea. The village was attacked by pirates so many times that the entire population abandoned their homes and moved high into the mountains, and far away from the coast.

By moving here they not only isolated themselves from the sea and the pirates, but also from the rest of the villages on the island. Because of this, their ancient traditions, customs, and dialect have been well preserved.

The traditions here in Olymbos are unique in all of Greece, and can be seen daily in how the women dress. For every day wear, they wear a black apron and simple scarf, and for special occasions they dress in bright colors and wear a double row of coins around their neck.

The homes here are also decorated with small paintings and sculptures. One sweet lady invited us inside her home to see what it looked like. With wooden beams, white washed walls, a small fireplace, and colorful hand stitched embroidery covering all the furnishings, I found it delightfully warm, cozy, and colorful. We also visited the church, the ancient windmills and many quaint little shops and a bakery as we wondered through this amazing mountain village. Here in Olymbos the communal oven is still a feature. These large, outdoor, wood fired ovens, are where women bring their bread and casseroles to bake. They take turns feeding the fire and are traditionally a place for women to socialize while their food cooks. I had read about these but had never seen one in use. Individual ovens in homes are replacing the communal oven in many places now. I found this village picturesque and inviting. It seemed there was something unique around every corner.

Driving back down from Olymbos, we stopped and had lunch in Diafani Village, located right next to the long and beautiful stretch of Diafani Beach. Ten meters wide and 200 meters long, this beach has crystal clear water, and virtually no waves This pebble beach is almost never crowded and offers only a few sun beds with umbrellas. It’s actually used the most by locals. Tourists come to see the sights and have lunch, but few stay long enough to use this beautiful little beach. Restaurants and taverns can be found just a few feet away from the promenade. We had a great seafood lunch at a little seaside restaurant and my husband made a new friend. Cats are very prevalent on the island and before he new it, a large tabby was cuddled up on his lap and napping. My husband is not a cat person, but they seem to gravitate to him every where we go. He just goes with it, but it makes me laugh. The promenade features a beautiful fountain and some amazing sculptures. You can also visit the church of Diafani, built right in the center of the village, and you get a great view of the ruins of the windmills on the nearby hilltops. I also saw another communal oven in use here in Diafani Village.

The following day we left early and drove the entire West side of the island. Stopping at small roadside chapels, discovering isolated beaches, small resorts, and just enjoying all this beautiful island has to offer. We stopped at a small cove beach late in the morning with the intention of staying awhile but after a short time, the heat and the hunger got to us and we hiked back up the hill to a small family-owned restaurant.

Most of the olive groves here on the island are owned by individual families for their own private use. This small family owned restaurant had a bottle of olive oil from their grove on each table and I have to say it was the best tasting olive oil I have ever had. We could not stop eating it. We just kept pouring it and dipping the fresh made pita breads into it. It was so light and delicious. We were a little embarrassed to discover we had eaten over half the bottle of olive oil with breads.

This West side of the island was more arid than the East side. Instead of pine trees, it was more scrub brush. Still beautiful as we passed through small, picturesque villages and visited more beaches. Some with a few amenities and some that were completely empty. It was wonderful!

I was truly enchanted by Karpathos. Even though it is close to Rhodes island, Karpathos takes some effort to get to and is more off the beaten track for tourists and gets much fewer visitors. With it’s preserved traditions, quaint villages, beautiful beaches, and stunning mountains, this won’t last long. Already, people seeking a more authentic experience have put Karpathos among the top European destinations. It is not a party destination, or for those with a limited amount of time. I found it beautiful, relaxing, and a great place to connect with nature and the local people.

Karpathos was so much more than I expected it would be. It definitely left me wanting to seek similar adventures and visit more Greek islands.

Watch Our Full Karpathos Video

Check out our Rhodes Island Blog and Video!

Rhodes is an island full of history, beauty and amazing food.

Recently I made my first trip to Greece and I was lucky enough to get to visit two Greek islands. My first stop was the Island of Rhodes and I was blown away.

I took the Sea Dreams Ferry from Marmaris, Turkey to the Greek island of Rhodes. It only took about an hour and cost $43.00. The ferry had comfortable seating, air-conditioning, nice restrooms, and a small kiosk to buy drinks and snacks. Before I knew it the ferry was pulling into the ancient port in the Old City of Rhodes Harbor.

I stayed at a nice boutique hotel in the old town of Rhodes, which is contained within the ancient city walls. As it turned out, from the harbor, I was in walking distance to one of the historic city gates that led right to our hotel. Once you pass through the gate into the old town, it is pedestrian traffic only, except for the odd motorized cart making a delivery. These ancient cobbled streets were not built with cars in mind.

Rhodes Old Town is a living museum containing centuries of history. History buff or not, you can’t help but appreciate its beauty and historical significance. I felt as if I was walking through time as I headed up the Street of the Knights of Rhodes. This 600 meter long street begins at what was originally the hospital and ends at the Palace of the Grand Master. In between there are seven Inns. One time residences for each of the Knights of St. John Hospitaller.

Originally built in the seventh century as a Byzantine Citadel, 600 years later, in 1309, the Knights Hospitaller conquered and occupied Rhodes, taking it over as their administrative center and Palace of their Grand Master (head of the Order of Knights). The Order of Knights of St. John of Jerusalem were a military and religious order which fought in the crusades to defend the Holy Lands. This order still exists today helping the sick and the poor internationally. There is even an ancient hospice here that was for elderly knights and knights injured in battle.

The palace is grand. I felt as if I had walked into a story book. This beautiful palace has 154 rooms, 24 of which are open to the public and showcase antiquities. Of special significance are some frescos by renowned artists along with great sections of the floors paved with ancient mosaics of Byzantine and Roman art. There are many statues from the Greek and Roman era both inside and out in the gardens. The furniture and tapestries on the walls were outstanding. For 10 Euros a person you can get a combo ticket that includes the Palace and the Archeological Museum, which is not to be missed either. The artifacts there are amazing!

Going back as far as 305 BC, Rhodes was already enclosed by walls. Then the Greeks and Romans added more fortification when they took the city over. And again in 1309 when the Knights Hospitaller took over, they added even more. Things like forts, towers, and an amazing moat that encircles the old city. Dry now, with a walking path through it, you can still see hundreds of enormous stone balls that were hurled by catapult at the city walls during countless battles that took place here.

The harbor here, besides being a strategic Naval base for the Knights, is where the Colossus of Rhodes once stood, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Built of bronze in 280 BC, the statue stood 33 meters high or 108 feet. He only stood for 54 years, then a massive earthquake broke the statue off at the knees. The people took this as a bad omen and never tried to rebuild the Colossus. Over the next century, traders would come and haul pieces of the bronze away until it was all gone. The harbor is still lined with ancient windmills that not only ground grain for export, but were also used as Naval lookout towers.

Cruise ships do come into this harbor and it can get quite crowded and busy. But all the day visitors see the sites, shop for souvenirs on the main street, eat, and then they are gone by late afternoon. We found that when a ship was in, we could just stay a block or two back from the main street and enjoy picturesque alleyways and small local restaurants with no crowds. There is so much history inside these ancient city walls, way more than I can even begin to cover here. It really takes your breath away.

After staying in Rhodes Old City for several days, I headed South, up the stunning rugged coastline to visit Lindos. Known for its beautiful beaches, the ancient acropolis, and picturesque cobblestone streets with whitewashed buildings.

The streets of Lindos are continuous buildings, chiefly with interior courtyards. Most of the houses have not been affected by time or changes in shape or use. They continue to be built from local quarried porous stones, or field stones, then plastered over and white washed. Its charming alleyways, expansive views, Mediterranean cuisine, and cosmopolitan atmosphere draw in everyone visiting the island of Rhodes.

Lindos is a maze of narrow cobbled passages. As picturesque as it is, it can get very over crowded as bus loads of day trippers from the cruise ships flood the small town and small beach for the day. They are all gone by 3:00 in the afternoon to head back to the cruise ship. We stayed four nights in Lindos in a lovely little hotel that had a terrace with tremendous views. The Aegean Sea in front of us and the Acropolis on the hilltop behind.

The Lindos Acropolis, or fortified Ancient Greek city, stands at 116 meters above sea level. Blending in with the dramatic natural landscape, the Acropolis provides a breathtaking backdrop to the town below. This was the center of religious and socio-political life in ancient times.

Most of the important archeological monuments can be found at the Acropolis, these include the Hellenistic temple of the goddess Athena Lindia, which was built on the ruins of an already ancient temple. You can also find the Propyaea, an Ancient Greek portico, these both date back to the 3rd century BC.

Although Athena remained the principal goddess of the temple, the cult of Zeus was introduced here by the Romans in 352 BC. There is also the Stoa, another massive sheltered promenade built in 200 BC. A little out of place was the Byzantine chapel of St. John. As in Rhodes Old City, the Knights of St. John were here centuries later, from 1309 until 1522, when they were forced to hand the island of Rhodes over to the forces of the Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Other smaller ruins can be found scattered in and around Lindos.

There is not much flat walking in Lindos and we did have to climb a few flights of stairs to get up to our hotel. The only way to get to the Acropolis is to walk up the hill, or ride a donkey. I walked up a couple of times and it was so worth it. When we entered the Acropolis we went early and were some of the first in line.

This was to avoid the heat and the crowds. People were really lining up to get in by the time we were leaving so arriving early really paid off. I think the island of Rhodes would be much more laid back during the shoulder season, but I am so glad we had the opportunity to visit when we did.

Our next stop should be a more laid back and relaxing experience, the stunning Greek Island of Karpathos.

Our Rhodes Island Video

Check out our blog and video from stunning Karpathos Island, Greece!

Karpathos Greece Is An Island Paradise

Rhodes Is A Must Visit Greek Island