Magical and Historical Guadalajara

Guadalajara, home of the Mariachi and the cultural center of Mexico. We did a long weekend trip from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara. It was only a short 40 minute flight on one of the most organized airlines I have ever flown. Instead of passengers all jumping up and grabbing their bags from the overhead, everyone stays seated until the stewardess gets to your section. She takes four rows at a time and those passengers get up, get their bags and exit the plane. Then she moves to the next four rows. It really made getting off the plane much easier and faster. I wish all airlines did this.

I really had no idea what to expect and was very excited to see what was in store. As it turned out, Guadalajara is a wonderful place to visit. A city of 5 million, Guadalajara is really big, and there was no way we could see everything we wanted in one long weekend. The city is peppered with large works of art, sculptures, and elaborate fountains and gardens. We stayed right in the historic center and I was overwhelmed by the beautiful buildings and cathedrals. I actually felt like I could have been in a European city. Most of these historic buildings surround a very large square where people, vendors, and street entertainers gather every evening.

Parked along one side of this square were horse drawn carriages, many of them very elaborate and beautiful. Early on Sunday morning, we did a carriage ride that took us past many historic buildings and down some beautiful streets. While stopped at a red light, we noticed that one lane of traffic on the main road had been completely closed down for bicyclists. It seems that every Sunday, one lane of the main road, and some side streets, are completely closed down to traffic just so people can get out and ride their bikes without having to worry about traffic. After our carriage ride we decided to walk the main avenue and check it all out. There were single cyclists, couples, and whole families out riding their bikes.

There were even groups of skateboarders joining in. If you don’t own a bike there were many places you could rent one for the day very cheaply. Everything started from the round-about and went out from there. There were also many vendors out and live music playing, and just an atmosphere of fun. We even passed a large outdoor Zumba class going on. What a great way to inspire people to get out and get some exercise and promote family activity. It was really fun.  

We stayed in a historic location called the Hotel Franceś. This hotel is over 400 years old! It’s stone walls are three feet thick, and the interior is all polished wood, and marble. The lobby features a beautiful stone fountain, a giant crystal chandelier, and a stained glass ceiling. It is truly lovely and I am sure that it is haunted. There were several truly strange and surreal occurrences during our stay, but I would definitely stay here again. There were blood curdling screams in the wee hours on our third night. Our second night was the strangest. Coming back from dinner, we walked into the immense lobby and found a Mariachi show going on. Tables and chairs that had not been there when we went out were set up in front of the stage and there were at least 60 or 70 people seated and drinking for the show.

Everyone sitting at the tables were dressed in a very old style of clothing, with hair styled to match. Even the Mariachi band’s suits did not look modern. There was no hotel staff to be seen, so we sat down and watched the show for a bit. But it just felt off, we got an eerie feeling and went up to our room. The next morning when we went out to breakfast, all the tables, chairs and stage were gone. There was no sign that anything had taken place the night before. We asked the daytime concierge about it and he said didn’t know anything about it. Then he said that it happens about once a month. We

Being over 400 years old, it has a storied history. In more recent decades it has been in a few movie scenes as well. Even the old Charles Bronson movie, “The Evil That Men Do”. Guadalajara felt a little surreal, like you were stepping into the past in some places. Especially in the historic center, with it’s horse drawn carriages, gaslit street lamps, fountains, and gardens. This place really had some historical ambiance.

Originating here in the state of Jalisco in the 1700s, Guadalajara is the home of the Mariachi, whose music has become a symbol of Mexico around the world. I love a Mariachi band, anywhere you visit in Mexico you’re sure to find one. You can now find Mariachi bands in many countries around the world as well. There is even an International Mariachi Festival every September featuring over 500 Mariachi bands from around the world. I would love to be in town for that. There are many shops here that sell the most elaborate Mariachi costumes, or traje de Charro. Near our hotel was a rooftop restaurant called El Mariachi. In addition to its great food, and beautiful view overlooking the Cathedral of Guadalajara, they had a 13 piece Mariachi band that was so outstanding. There’s nothing like having a song played directly to you by amazing musicians and singers. Talk about a fun evening, and one of the many reasons I love Mexico.

The historic center contains some beautiful, and immense buildings. One of them being the Teatro Degollado. Unfortunately it was still closed due to the pandemic and we did not get to see the Jalisco Philharmonic Orchestra, which would have been fantastic. There were a few people from the orchestra playing in the square and they were amazing. This orchestra is over 100 years old and is not only one of the premier orchestras in Latin America, but also in the world. 

Other historic buildings in the square that we were only able to see from the outside included the Supreme Court building, the Building of the Governor of the State of Jalisco, and the Guadalajara Regional Museum.

This historic square is a gathering place in the evenings and on weekends. We strolled through here every evening just to see what all was happening. There was live music, some very interesting puppet shows, clowns, all types of food carts, and toy and souvenir vendors. Pretty much something to entertain everyone.

We did get to go inside the Cathedral of Guadalajara and is it ever beautiful. Completed in 1618, the inside of this cathedral is a work of art with its ten altars, stained glass and marble. It also contains a glass coffin with the mummified body of Santa Innocencia, a young girl who was killed by her father in 1700 for converting to Catholicism. I found this fascinating. Pope Pius XII elevated the cathedral to the status of a minor basilica. It has also survived six earthquakes with only minor damage. It is absolutely worth a visit.

We spent one morning at the Mercado Libertad, the largest indoor market in Latin America. Opened 65 years ago, this market is open 365 days a year and is frequented by locals and tourists. The Mercado has everything from fresh meats and vegetables to eyeglasses, saddles, and video games, plus anything else you can think of. You can also find many little eateries offering some of the most delicious Mexican foods. With three different levels, there is so much to take in here and we did our best to see it all in one morning. I got mesmerized in the handmade leather shoe section by some truly beautiful shoes. Unfortunately, not my size.

Another great area to walk is the Avenida Vallarta. Wide sidewalks, mature shady trees, lush gardens, and historic Colonia Americana mansions. Some are open to tour, one is a museum, and some are still family homes. We found ourselves strolling this grand avenue several times.

We visited a city within a city, Tlaquepaque. It’s complete historical name is San Pedro Tlaquepaque (ta-la-key-pa-key). We took a taxi to this small city of 571,000 that at one time had been located outside of Guadalajara, but over the decades it has been more than encompassed by the city. Amazingly, it still retains its own name, its own city status, and its own flair. We had a great time as we got in on their weekend market that was set up in the park in front of the cathedral. It was filled with beautiful Mexican clothing, handicrafts, art, and jewelry. I bought a lovely necklace and earrings that have colorful, tiny little Mexican clay pots and cups. Tlaquepaque has long been the home of talented artisans and craftsman and is known for its pottery, textiles, and hand blown glass. 

Several of the main streets here are closed to all but pedestrian traffic which allows you to stroll through the cobble stone streets, alleys, plazas, and gardens. We walked the Calle Independencia, the vibrant main street of this area, browsing all the boutique stores and art galleries.

Located, one on each end of park, were two lovely cathedrals. First we went to the Parroquia San Pedro Apostal, or the Saint Peter the Apostle Parish. Dating back to the 1600s and  constructed by Franciscan monks, this lovely cathedral contains some priceless works of religious art that are definitely worth seeing. At the other end of the park is the Sanctuario Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, or the Our Lady of Solitude Sanctuary. Opened in 1813 this cathedral is beautiful inside as well, while being completely different from the first one. 

We also went to the Sergio Bustamonte Art Gallery. Large sculptures line the street in front of the gallery, and the gallery itself is filled with his wonderful and imaginative sculptures and paintings. His work is so unique and distinguished, it’s like stepping into another world. He has a couple of large sculptures displayed on the malecon in Puerto Vallarta and a gallery there as well. This gallery is lovely and even has an outdoor area with amazing works on display. Surprisingly, it is free and I am really glad we took advantage of the opportunity to see more of his amazing work. It is also air-conditioned inside and I really needed to take advantage of that for a few minutes.

We stopped for lunch at a really nice restaurant called Restaurante Casa Luna that offered outdoor seating in the shade, with misters, to keep you cool. We discovered a new drink here called the Cazuela. Made with grapefruit and other citrus juices, mezcal, a touch of salt, and poured over ice. It is served in a carved gourd bowl that sits on a wooden tripod, making a very nice presentation. After a tasty lunch of Bistec Molcajetes and a couple of Cazuelas, we headed back into Guadalajara.

Before we knew it our Guadalajara weekend was over and we were flying back to Puerto Vallarta. We packed so much into our long weekend and I definitely plan to visit Guadalajara again in the future to spend more than just a long weekend. I still need to see the Philharmonic at the Teatro Degollado, and tour the museum. I have always wanted to see the Lucha Libre, and this would be the place to do it. I also want to stay at the Hotel Frances again, at least one night. 

Our Guadalajara YouTube Video